Summary:
Follow the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River to a roaring waterfall tumbling down the walls of a massive granite cirque.

The trail winds through boulders and conifers with just a gradual climb. Although the elevation change over the course of the hike is around 500 ft, it certainly doesn’t feel like it. True, you climb all the way, but the gradient is so gentle you barely notice it.

After 15 minutes or so, as the trail bears left to follow a bend in the river, you get a clear view of the immense granite cliffs that form the cirque at the head of the valley. To the right is The Watchtower, the massive promontory that forms the valley’s southern boundary and a dominant presence for the rest of the hike. In late spring, large patches of snow still remain on its north-facing lower slopes.

Around the 1 mile mark, clamber up and around some huge boulders and cross a trickle of water as the churning white water of the river thunders past on the right. Pass through a denser section of forest, and cross footbridges over branches of Horse Creek as it flows down to the river.

The scenery changes dramatically as you approach the head of the valley, and move from the wooded floor to the stark, glacial setting of the fall. At 1.4 miles a different roar joins the thunder of the river, and after a final gentle climb Tokopah Falls comes into view. The setting is majestic, as it plunges 1,200 ft down the massive granite headwall. It is an impressive sight, but continue for a few minutes to the trail end, where the power of the fall can truly be appreciated.

The path is rockier now as it heads through a jumble of massive boulders. Marmots scurry amongst the rocks here, and you may also catch a glimpse of the guinea pig-like pika. The trail ends right at the head of the valley, at the very edge of the seething falls. A large boulder here makes a wonderful place to sit and admire the valley’s beauty. But do not go any further; a sign warns that steep cliffs make travel dangerous beyond this point.

In spring, the full force of the waterfall surges right before you and its cooling spray is wonderful on a warm day. Standing at the head of the valley, you can look down at the conifer-covered floor, surrounded by immense cliffs. Hike mid-week and off-season, and you may well have this all to yourself – as we did.

Lakes Trail via The Watchtower
This wonderful high-country hike is only guaranteed to be passable in summer and early fall – the precipitous route over The Watchtower is closed by ice or snow. From The Watchtower there are magnificent views over Tokopah Valley and, if you have a head for heights, you will enjoy the continuous views along the “white knuckle” section, a ledge cut into the cliff above Tokopah Falls. The trail continues to Heather Lake (a popular turnaround point for day hikers), and then on to other alpine lakes: Emerald, Aster and Pear. Length (out and back): 9.2 miles/14.7 km to Heather Lake; 11.4 miles/18.2 km to Emerald Lake; 13.4 miles/21.4 km to Pear Lake. Elevation change: up to 2,300 ft/700 m. Trailhead: Wolverton parking area, at the end of a spur road off Generals Highway, 2 miles south of Lodgepole.

Directions: From Visalia, take Hwy 198 through Three Rivers to the Ash Mountain Park entrance and Foothills visitor center. Continue up Generals Highway, a steep, narrow and winding road (not advised to long vehicles) for around 1 hour, and turn right on the short spur road past Lodgepole visitor center to the campground.

Trailhead: Log Bridge section of Lodgepole campground. If you are not camping here, park in the large lot just before the bridge. The trailhead is immediately on the right as you cross the bridge, a couple of minutes walk away.

Length: 3.4 miles / 5.4 km

Trail Type: Loop

Elevation Change: 500 ft / 152 m

Duration: 2 hours

Trail Condition: Clear and easy to follow.

Features: Waterfall, river, cliffs, forest.

Climate: Cool spring and fall, warm in summer. Deep snow in winter.

Accommodation: Lodgepole campground next to the trailhead and nearby lodging at Wuksachi Village, a mile away along Generals Highway. Outside the Park, further accommodation at Three Rivers and just before the Ash Mountain entrance.

Trail Notes: Buy trail map at Foothills or Lodgepole visitor centers. For greater solitude, avoid weekends or set out early. The river and waterfall are at their fullest and most impressive during late spring/early summer.