| Paria Canyon Wilderness, Utah |
Trail Name:Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch Summary: |
| Highly Recommended One Day Hike |
| Trail Description |
| Buckskin Gulch, a narrow chasm gouged deep into the Navajo sandstone of the Colorado plateau, is probably the world’s longest and most impressive slot canyon. It runs for more than 12 miles before emerging into Paria Canyon, a challenging trip that should be undertaken only by experienced and properly equipped backpackers (and those not suffering from claustrophobia). However, day hikers can explore part of Buckskin by accessing it via Wire Pass, a short gorge cut through the sandstone by Coyote Wash that offers spectacular slots of its own.
From the parking area, cross the dirt road and the dry wash onto the clearly marked, sandy trail. Take heed of the warning sign here: “Flash floods can occur at any time of the year. Canyon is narrow with sheer walls. Know the latest weather forecast and canyon conditions. Emergency response is never rapid.” The deaths of 11 people in Antelope Canyon (near Page) in 1997 attests to the rapid and devastating effect of a flash flood in a slot canyon. The trail leads through sagebrush to the right of the wash, with low sandstone bluffs to each side. After just a few minutes, pass through a v-shaped gate and bear left, as directed by the sign, into the wash. Now simply follow the wide wash floor, a mixture of deep sand and gravel. Although level, there is no shade, which can make for very hot hiking during the warmer months. The wash cuts through The Cockscomb, a double row of sandstone fins that stretch north for miles, separating the Grand Staircase from the Kaiparowits Plateau. A mile from the trailhead, the low slopes flanking the wash are replaced by higher sandstone walls and ahead rises an impressive cream-pink cliff. The gradient drops a little, the walls narrow, and you are into the canyon proper. 5 minutes later, the sheer water-carved canyon walls narrow significantly to a width of just 6 ft. Out of the sun, the temperature drops 20°F – wonderfully cool on a hot day. A minute later, the 50 ft high, rippled sandstone walls narrow again to no more than 3 ft. But no sooner are you into this first slot then your way through is stopped by a sheer, 8 ft drop. Some boulders have been piled at the bottom, but do not rely on them to take your weight (when we hiked, some had been knocked over, making them difficult to reach). If you choose to bypass the drop (as we did), backtrack out of the slot and on your left (the right side of the canyon) find a good place to scramble up the slickrock. Look for a faint sandy path, and you may also see some footprints. Pass to the right of a knoll and slide back down the very steep rock to the canyon floor, just past the first slot. A couple of minutes later you are into another slot, but with much lower walls this time. Here there is another drop, about 6 ft this time and passable – again there are boulders below but make sure they are stable before you trust your weight to them. And then you enter an extremely narrow, extremely high-walled slot. This one is a truly awesome sight. The sheer, water-sculptured red cliff walls, streaked with black and rising 100 ft (or more), narrow to just a couple of feet. After a couple of minutes you emerge once more into the sun. The beautiful canyon is wider here, but still surrounded by massive sandstone walls. The sheer cliff on the right is marked by a huge alcove and next to it, on the base of the wall, is a collection of Indian petroglyphs. Just beyond is the confluence with Buckskin Gulch – 1.7 miles from the trailhead. Turning left or right into rock-strewn Buckskin Gulch will quickly take you into more slots, and you can explore as much as you wish. Turning right, the Buckskin narrows run for over 11 miles to the confluence with the Paria River. Sun can barely filter through the tight, overhanging canyon walls to the rocky floor. You may encounter pools of water or deep mud – even after a long spell of dry weather expect to get your feet wet. When you are ready to leave, retrace your steps through the Wire Pass slots. If you detoured around the first slot on the way in, venture in on the way back to see if you can scramble up the 8-ft dry fall. There is a 5-ft ledge to negotiate first, easily climbed using two large boulders beneath it. The 8-footer is trickier, but we eventually managed to clamber up (if you are tall and athletic you shouldn’t have too much trouble). On the return to the trailhead along the open wash, and back out in bright sunlight, reflect on the beauty of this canyon country – green hills contrasting with red sandstone, and total peace and quiet. |
| FACT FILE |
| Location: Paria Canyon-Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness in south-west Utah, between Kanab (Utah) and Page (Arizona). Paria Canyon-Wire Pass day-use fee is $5 per person, payable at the trailhead register.
Directions: On Hwy 89, travel 30 miles west from Page or 40 miles east from Kanab to the Paria Canyon ranger station (on the left of the highway as you head west). Stop here first for current weather and canyon conditions. Continue west on Hwy 89 for 5 miles. Trailhead: Just before mile marker 26, where Hwy 89 bends right, turn left onto an unsigned dirt road (passable to all vehicles in dry weather). The Wire Pass parking area is on the right after 8.5 miles (ignore the turnoff to Buckskin Gulch Trailhead after 4.5 miles). Length: 3.4 miles / 5.4 km Trail Type: Out and back Elevation Change: Negligible Duration: 2 hours Trail Condition: There is no trail (except for the first few minutes) – simply follow the wash. Some dry falls to negotiate and possible scrambling over steep slickrock. Features: Dramatic slot canyons, high sandstone cliffs, petroglyphs. Climate: Best in spring and fall. Thunderstorms make flash floods a real danger in summer. Cold and icy in winter. Accommodation: Motels in Kanab and Page. Trail Notes: Rainfall many miles away can trigger a flash flood – always check conditions first and do not enter the slot canyons if there is any chance of rain. Watch out for rattlesnakes in Buckskin Gulch. |
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