Summary:
Hike and clamber over rocks to see the unforgettable Towers of Paine rising imperiously from glacial cliffs.

From the Hosteria Los Torres, cross the footbridge and turn right to head up the hillside. It is a steep climb – early climbers called it ‘The Grind’ – but the slow, aching process does have its compensations. You have tremendous views of the surrounding mountainous terrain, although you will not be able to see the towers, which are hidden behind the mass of Mount Almirante Nieto.

As you near the top of the slope, you round a bend to see the valley of the youthful Rio Ascensio. For 15 minutes you descend to a bridge and Refugio Chileno. You should now see the tips of the Torres sticking out from a wooded headland like dorsal fins breaking the water’s surface. They seem close, but there is still some hiking to do.

The next section is through densely wooded and undulating terrain. After 20 minutes or so, cross a stream and continue hiking for another 40 minutes to a junction overlooking another stream. The Torres campsite is beyond, hidden in the trees. To reach the Towers, turn left for the scramble up the boulders. It will take around 30 minutes to get to the top, possibly much longer depending on how quickly you can navigate the rocks.

Now you can savor a magnificent view across Laguna Torres to the huge Towers rising from the glacial cliffs. Waterfalls cascade into the lake, where the Towers reflect, especially in the light of early morning. Be aware that strong winds can drive through the Towers and have caused casualties, including one fatality, when hikers have been blown from ledges and exposed rock.

After a rest, clamber down the boulders and re-trace your way back to the trailhead at the hosteria. There is also a good view of the Towers from the campground here. As the sun sinks in the west, you might be lucky enough to see sunlight stream through the v-shaped notch at the top of Torre Central, like a searchlight probing the heavens.

In terms of hiking, the National Park is probably best known for the Torres Circuit. But with minibuses and boats providing convenient access to the best sections of this multi-day hike, Torres del Paine should certainly be on the wish list of every one-day hiker. The energetic walk to the Towers may well be the highlight of any trip here – the final reward is unforgettable. But although less challenging, the trail to Glaciar Grey offers incomparable views of an iceberg-strewn lake fed by a beautiful glacier.

Directions: From Puerto Natales, take Ruta 9 north for 58 miles/93 km (passing Cerro Castillo after 60 km), then turn left towards Cerro Guido and Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Follow the lakeshore to the Lago Sarmiento entrance gate, or branch off right after 11 km for the Laguna Amarga entrance. Buses also run to the Park from Puerto Natales.

Trailhead: Hosteria Las Torres, 4.4 miles/7 km west of the Laguna Amarga entrance along an unpaved track. You can catch a minibus from the entrance gate to the hosteria for a few US dollars.

Length: 9 miles / 14.4 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 2,460 ft / 750 m

Duration: 7 hours

Trail Condition: Well marked, but with scree in places and a steep climb over boulders at the end.

Features: Mountains, sheer rock cliffs, river valley.

Climate: Changeable – be prepared for rain at any time. Highs in 70s October through April. Strong westerly winds late spring/early summer.

Accommodation: 4 campgrounds, 10 refugios, 3 hosterias and Hotel Explora inside the Park.

Trail Notes: Trail map available at the administration building. The last part of the trail involves an energetic scramble.

Summary:
Walk beside an iceberg-strewn lake, dammed by a blue glacier and surrounded by jagged mountain peaks.

The Cuernos are twisted and gnarled mountain tops, flanked by clear lakes to the south. You get a great view of them from the boat, as it carries you west across Lake Pehoe to Refugio Pehoe on the opposite shore. The journey takes around an hour. Unless you intend staying at the refugio or adjacent campsite, be sure to catch the last launch of the day, usually at 4.30pm (otherwise you will be left with a 5 hour walk to the administration building, and still be 9 miles short of your starting point!). Taking the first boat of the day out to the trailhead should leave you with 6-7 hours – perfect for this one-day hike.

Almost all the hike is through light woods, with dappled sunlight filtering through the leaves. On many occasions, the trail leads to rocky outcrops where you can look down upon the blue-green waters of Lago Grey and the flotilla of icebergs scattered upon its surface. The surrounding snow-covered mountains provide a fantastic backdrop, but the best is yet to come.

The walk is steep in places, but usually not for long. After 2 hours, another incline takes you to the brow of a hill where you first see Grey’s glacier in the distance. A little further on and the trail hugs the edge of the lake, where you will get the best views of the glacier – and on a clear day, with blue skies above, the image is nothing short of inspirational. In the distance, two huge tongues of shimmering blue and white ice, ridged like meringue, wrap themselves around either side of a stubborn headland in a choking embrace. They form one icefield, stretching back from the headland towards the imposing skyline of snowy mountains, jagged peaks and blue sky. Icebergs gracefully float in front of the vast glacial wall, which is still 2.5 miles away from you.

The beauty of the scene belies its scale. Only when a large tour boat sails past the icebergs and approaches the glacial wall can you appreciate the size of everything. The boat is dwarfed by just one iceberg, which is insignificant compared to the awesome glacier itself, stretching to an infinite whiteness on the horizon.

A short distance from the trail you will easily find peaceful places to enjoy the lake and glacier. This part of the trail makes a very rewarding destination where you can stay an hour or so – especially if you do not intend to hike all the way to Refugio Grey, where the wood becomes thicker and the views less expansive. However, the shelter makes a natural turning-round point, and the data given in the Fact File are for the hike to the refugio.

To return to the boat launch, it’s a simple case of re-tracing your steps, although you will be compelled to turn around to admire the scenery behind you. This hike is a gem – pristine mountain scenery, an iceberg-filled lake, and an awesome glacier that makes you feel as if you’re in Antarctica. And usually you only share it with a few other hikers. What’s more, it starts and ends with a boat ride across Lake Pehoe, where you can see the Cuernos del Paine towering menacingly above the calm waters.

Directions: From Puerto Natales, take Ruta 9 north for 58 miles/93 km (passing Cerro Castillo after 60 km), then turn left towards Cerro Guido and Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Follow the lakeshore to the Lago Sarmiento entrance gate, or branch off right after 11 km for the Laguna Amarga entrance. Buses also run to the Park from Puerto Natales.

Trailhead: Refugio Pehoe, reached by boat across Lake Pehoe (about US$13, up to 3 times a day). Launch is at Refugio Pudeto, 9 miles/14.5 km north of the Park administration building and around 11 miles/18 km south-west of the Laguna Amarga and Lago Sarmiento entrances along the paved Park road.

Length: 11.5 miles / 18.4 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 650 ft / 198 m

Duration: 6 hours

Trail Condition: Well marked, can be muddy in places.

Features: Woods, lakes, icebergs, glacier, mountains.

Climate: Changeable – be prepared for rain at any time. Highs in 70s October through April. Strong westerly winds late spring/early summer.

Accommodation: 4 campgrounds, 10 refugios, 3 hosterias and Hotel Explora inside the Park.

Trail Notes: Trail map and details of the boat launch available at the administration building. The trail is wooded, especially towards the end around Refugio Grey – the best views are about 4 miles from the start.