Summary:
The reward for this strenuous climb is attaining the summit of the highest mountain in Texas, 8,749-ft Guadalupe Peak.

Keep left at the fork just beyond the trailhead. Shortly after that, the trail divides again. Ignore the El Capitan Trail on the left. Either take the middle fork, for hikers only; or the right, for horses and hikers – the two will meet up again. The distance given in the Fact File is based on the longer, but less steep, horse-and-hiker option for the ascent, and the shorter hikers-only option for the descent.

The right fork heads up Pine Spring Canyon for about 0.8 mile/1.3 km. Where Devils Hall Trail branches off to the right, turn left (south) to climb out of the canyon and meet up with the hikers-only trail in another 0.7 mile. Bear right to continue the climb to the summit (remember to keep right here on the way back to take the shorter route on the descent).

It is a hard, unrelenting climb. Vegetation changes from the typical desert plants you see at the start, to pondorosa pine and douglas fir. Indeed, the switchbacks climb through pine and fir forest for much of the way.

A side trail leads off to the Guadalupe Peak backcountry camp about 1 mile/1.6 km from the summit. From here, the trail drops a little to a saddle before the final ascent via switchbacks. At last you reach the rocky summit, marked by a large metal pyramid, and its 360 panorama (although the view is often hazy due to air pollution). To the west are the salt flats, 5,000 ft below. To the south is 8,078-ft El Capitan, the massive monolith marking the southern end of the Guadalupe Mountains. Stretching north are the other peaks and ridges of the range.

Directions: Approach from the north-east or west on US 62/180. From the south, Hwy 54 from Van Horn joins the 62/180 just south of the Park. For Headquarters visitor center, turn off the 62/180 about 8.5 miles north of this intersection.

Trailhead: Pine Springs Campground, at the end of the road, 0.5 mile beyond Headquarters visitor center.

Length: 9 miles / 14.4 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 2,930 ft / 893 m

Duration: 6 hours

Trail Condition: Marked and maintained.

Features: Canyon, strenuous climb, rugged mountain, panoramic view.

Climate: Best in spring (although can be very windy) and autumn. Hot in summer with afternoon thunderstorms. Snowstorms may temporarily block access to the Park in winter.

Accommodation: Pine Springs Campground has tent and RV sites on a first-come, first-served basis. Nearest motels at White’s City, New Mexico, 35 miles north-east on US 62/180.

Trail Notes: Topographic map available at the visitor center. The peak is exposed to lightening so avoid being on the summit on summer afternoons. Start early and carry plenty of water.

Summary:
This stunning canyon, carved into the high cliffs of the Guadalupe range, has been called “the most beautiful spot in Texas”.

From the visitor center, keep straight ahead into canyon, ignoring the short nature trail on left and the Permian Reef Geology Trail on the right a little later. Desert scrub and cacti dominate initially as you follow clear McKittrick Creek, the only year-round stream in the Park. But, as the canyon narrows, the vegetation becomes ever more lush, enhancing the high cliffs surrounding you. Cross the shallow creek a number of times over stepping stones as you head through the canyon.

2.3 miles/3.7 km into the canyon, at the picnic area, a short fork on the right leads to the Pratt Cabin, built of stone by geologist William Pratt in 1930. The clear trail continues along the south fork of the canyon (the north fork branches off just beyond Pratt Cabin, but there is no trail).

Head through beautiful woods of ponderosa pine, juniper, oak, Texas madrone and maple for 1.1 mile/1.8 km to a fork. Take the short trail on the left for around 0.3 mile/0.5 km to the Grotto, where the limestone formations resemble the stalagmites of a cave.

Back at the fork, the level trail starts its steep climb out of the canyon to McKittrick Ridge. This is the turning round point for day-hikers, but you may want to climb up for about 0.5 mile to a rock with good views.

Smith Spring
Another easy hike, this time starting at Frijole Ranch, gently climbs 400 ft/122 m through desert scrub to Smith Spring. This peaceful oasis at the foot of the Guadalupe Mountains is resplendent with maidenhair ferns, pine, madrone, alligator juniper, oak and bigtooth maple. Although you have only walked just over a mile, you feel far from civilization: dappled sunlight filters through the green canopy and the only sounds are water softly running over weathered rocks and the faint hum of busy insects. Loop back via a second oasis, Manzanita Spring, for a total distance of 2.3 miles/3.7 km. Trailhead: Turn off US 62/180 1.5 miles north of Headquarters visitor center onto the 0.75-mile gravel road to Frijole Ranch.

Directions: Approach from the north-east or west on US 62/180. From the south, Hwy 54 from Van Horn joins the 62/180 just south of the Park. Continue north from this intersection for about 16 miles (passing Headquarters visitor center after 8.5 miles) to the paved McKittrick Canyon access road. This is a day-use area only, and the entrance gate is locked at dusk.

Trailhead: Behind McKittrick Canyon visitor center, at the end of the 4-mile access road.

Length: 7.5 miles / 12.0 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 340 ft / 104 m

Duration: 3.5 hours

Trail Condition: Maintained and easy to follow.

Features: Creek and canyon, high cliffs, rock formations.

Climate: Best in spring and autumn. Hot in summer. Snowstorms may temporarily block access in winter.

Accommodation: Inside the Park, Pine Springs Campground near the Headquarters visitor center has tent and RV sites on a first-come, first-served basis. Nearest motels at White’s City, New Mexico, 35 miles north-east on US 62/180.

Trail Notes: Trail map and booklet available at both visitor centers, but McKittrick Canyon visitor center is only manned intermittently. Treated water is sometimes available at Pratt Cabin, but do not rely on it.

Summary:
A varied and dramatic trail, past meadows and rugged peaks, to the high cliffs of the South Rim of the Chisos Mountains.

From the parking area, take the trail signed to Laguna Meadow, the Pinnacles and South Rim. After a few minutes, the trail forks; bear right to Laguna Meadow (the left fork is the return route). Now begins the long climb through woodland to reach the Basin rim, where the trail levels. Just beyond is Laguna Meadow, an open grassy area dotted with pine and juniper, around 3.5 miles from the trailhead.

Pass through the meadow, circling the south-west slopes of Emory Peak, the highest in Big Bend at 7,835 ft. The most southerly stand of aspen in the US grows amongst the boulders on these slopes. Keep left at the junction with Blue Creek Trail and right at the junction with Colima Trail (a shortcut to Boot Spring used by the horseback trips) to stay on the main trail heading south. All the junctions are well signed.

Around 1.5 miles later, at the 6 mile point, you finally reach the 7,400-ft cliffs of the South Rim. Views stretch in all directions: over the mountains of the Chisos range and the desert 2,500 ft below; Emory Peak looming to the north; the Sierra del Carmen mountains to the east; to the west the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon; and, on a clear day, south to distant Mexican peaks.

As you follow the trail along the South Rim, ignore the Boot Canyon short-cut trail on the left. This bypasses the scenic East Rim, reducing the overall hike distance to 13 miles (you may be forced to take this short-cut if peregrine falcons are nesting on the East Rim, making it off-limits from February to early summer). The trail continues along the edge of the South Rim for around 1.5 miles before bearing left along the East Rim, to some great views into Juniper Canyon.

At around 9 miles, intersect the Boot Canyon short-cut trail and turn right to drop into Boot Canyon, an oasis of cypress, fir and pine. Ignore the Juniper Canyon Trail on the right after 0.5 mile and keep ahead to the Park Service cabin and Boot Spring (the water here should be purified before use). Nearby is the “Boot” itself, a distinctive rock spire shaped like an upside-down cowboy boot. Shortly after, bear right at the junction with the Colima Trail to continue through Boot Canyon. In another mile, the Emory Peak Trail climbs away to the left (this 1-mile ascent and scramble to the summit is usually done as a separate day hike). Just beyond this, you reach the head of Boot Canyon and crest the Basin wall at 7,100-ft Pinnacles Pass.

There are now only 3.5 miles to go. Steep switchbacks descend into the Basin past rhyolite spires. It is very scenic, but you will need to watch your footing on the loose rock. A couple of level sections break the descent: the grassy flats of Boulder Meadow at the 13-mile point (strewn with boulders, as its name suggests), and Juniper Flat a little further on. Continue descending through a dense woodland of pinyon, juniper and oak. Keep right at the Chisos Basin Loop junction to return to the parking area in 0.5 mile.

Directions: Hwy 118 from Alpine to the west entrance, US 385 from Marathon to the north entrance. The Park HQ and main visitor center are at Panther Junction, in the center of the Park, at the intersection of these two roads – 29 miles south of the north entrance and 22 miles east of the west entrance.

Trailhead: Chisos Basin. At Basin Junction, 3 miles west of Panther Junction along Hwy 118, turn south onto the 7-mile paved road to the Basin (not recommended to RVs over 24 ft). The Basin Trailhead is at the road-end, close to the lodge and the ranger station.

Length: 14.5 miles / 23.2 km

Trail Type: Loop

Elevation Change: 2,000 ft / 610 m

Duration: 8 hours

Trail Condition: Clear and maintained with marked junctions. Steep and rocky in places.

Features: Woods and meadows, cliffs and canyons, rock formations, extensive views.

Climate: Best in early spring, late autumn and winter. Hottest months are usually May and June, with summer thunderstorms until October.

Accommodation: Chisos Mountains Lodge in the Basin has motel units and stone cottages (reservations essential well in advance). The Basin also has the most convenient campground to the trailhead (first-come, first-served). The closest motels outside the Park are about 3 miles beyond the west entrance.

Trail Notes: Trail maps available at Panther Junction and Basin visitor centers. Start early to avoid climbing at the hottest time of day and carry plenty of water.

Summary:
One of the top trails in Texas, this moderate hike in the High Chisos Mountains leads to some of the best views in Big Bend.

From the parking area at Panther Pass, the trail steadily ascends through pinyon, juniper and oak forest along the lower slopes of Casa Grande, with its distinctive, castle-like summit. There are wonderful views down Green Gulch along the way. After 1 mile, you reach the head of Juniper Canyon, where an overlook has an impressive view of the wooded canyon to the south and Pulliam Bluff to the north-west.

The trail now switchbacks more steeply for another mile, before cresting the ridge between Pine Canyon to the east and Juniper Canyon below to the south-west. The ridge is followed for 0.4 mile to a promontory at 6,850 ft, which has panoramic views all around – some of the best in the Park. It is tempting to linger here for a while to soak in the views, but you will need to descend quickly from this high-point in the event of a thunderstorm.

Rising above the promontory at the trail end is Lost Mine Peak. According to a Spanish legend, on Easter Sunday the rays of the rising sun strike the peak at the exact location of a rich silver mine.

For another perspective on the Chisos Mountains, head to The Window. This trail descends into Oak Creek Canyon and leads to a distinctive cleft in the high cliffs that surround the Basin. On the return there are classic views of Casa Grande, particularly good in the late afternoon. Starting from the Chisos Basin Trailhead near the Lodge, distance is 5.2 miles/8.3 km out and back, elevation change -800 ft/244 m (climbs on return). It is also possible to pick up the trail at Chisos Campground, which reduces the total distance to 4 miles/6.4 km.

Directions: Hwy 118 from Alpine to the west entrance, US 385 from Marathon to the north entrance. The Park HQ and main visitor center are at Panther Junction, in the center of the Park, at the intersection of these two roads – 29 miles south of the north entrance and 22 miles east of the west entrance.

Trailhead: Parking area at Panther Pass. At Basin Junction, 3 miles west of Panther Junction along Hwy 118, turn south onto a 7-mile paved road that climbs up the large canyon of Green Gulch to 5,679-ft Panther Pass before dropping down to the Chisos Basin (not recommended to RVs over 24 ft).

Length: 4.8 miles / 7.7 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 1,171 ft / 357 m

Duration: 3 hours

Trail Condition: Clear and well-maintained.

Features: Canyon views, rock formations, flora and fauna.

Climate: Best in early spring, late autumn and winter. Hottest months are usually May and June, with summer thunderstorms until October.

Accommodation: Chisos Mountains Lodge in the Basin has motel units and stone cottages (reservations essential well in advance). The Basin also has the most convenient campground to the trailhead (first-come, first-served). The closest motels outside the Park are about 3 miles beyond the west entrance.

Trail Notes: Trail maps and self-guiding booklet available at the visitor center. Take plenty of water.