Summary:
A delightful walk through meadows and aspen groves to a tranquil lake backed by Stones Peak.

Begin by crossing a couple of bridges – and immediately you will be compelled to stop to admire the stunning mountains beyond Big Thompson River. The trail undulates gently as it passes a wide expanse of meadow, thick with grasses and wildflowers in summer, where you may well see elk.

At about 0.5 mile/0.8 km, there is a very gentle climb as you bear right, rounding a rocky knoll and leaving the meadow behind. Here the mountains come into view again. Head through a jumble of large rocks in open woods, and pass a couple of ponds (with frogs croaking and very much alive with insect life). A few minutes later, after a short climb up some rocks, more marshy ground comes into view on the left.

The trail, still gently undulating, heads into open pine forest and past more meadows and marshy ground. At 1.5 miles/2.4 km it becomes rockier, and the steeper climb to the lake begins, through stands of aspen interspersed with denser forest offering welcome shade on a hot day.

5 minutes before the lake, a side path heads left to Cub Creek campground. Continue straight on, following narrow Cub Creek, and emerge from the trees into a clearing, where the gradient levels. Pass a second turning to the campground and the trail divides: the path to the left leads directly to the eastern end of Cub Lake in a couple of minutes; the right fork, the main trail, climbs to the right of the lake along the north shore.

Make for the north shore for the better views. Here there are plenty of large boulders at the lake edge, encouraging you to sit and stay awhile. The hills around the lake are cloaked with pine, the shoreline formed by grasses and rocks. Ducks bob on the gently rippling water, crowded with yellow water lilies in summer. And to the west is Stones Peak, particularly beautiful early in the year with its thick covering of snow.

Directions: From Denver, take US 36 (off I-25 north) through Boulder to the town of Estes Park, just outside the Park’s east entrance. Continue on the 36 into the Park to the Bear Lake Rd junction, 1 mile beyond Beaver Meadows visitor center. (Note – Trail Ridge Rd, which runs across the Park connecting the west and east entrances, is only open from the end of May to mid-October, weather permitting).

Trailhead: Parking area on Cub Lake Rd, near Moraine Park campground. Follow Bear Lake Rd for 1 mile and turn right towards the campground. After 0.7 mile, turn left onto Cub Lake Rd and proceed for 1 mile to the trailhead parking.

Length: 4.6 miles / 7.4 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 540 ft / 165 m

Duration: 2.5 hours

Trail Condition: Clear and well maintained, easy to follow when snow-free.

Features: Meadows, lake, forest, wildlife.

Climate: Snow-free spring to late fall, but be prepared for changeable conditions at any time of year. Can be very hot in summer.

Accommodation: Moraine Park is the nearest campground, open all year for tents and RVs. Estes Park has plenty of accommodation, including motels and campgrounds with hook-ups.

Trail Notes: Beaver Meadows visitor center has topographic maps and trail information. If snowshoeing in winter, the route may be covered by drifts and hard to follow in places – check conditions with the visitor center.

Summary:
A climb to three mountain-framed lakes, ending at the rugged saddle beneath distinctive Hallett Peak.

From the top of the car park cross the bridge, turn left as directed by the sign, and bear right a few yards later at the fork. The wide, well-formed path climbs very gently through sweet-smelling pine forest, with occasional glimpses of mountains through the trees.

It is just 0.5 mile/0.8 km to the first lake, Nymph, surrounded by pine trees. The trail passes to the right of the lake to the north shore, from where there is a gorgeous view over the water – or ice if you are here early in the year – to the mountains, including Longs Peak (see main picture).

For the next 0.6 mile/1 km you continue climbing through open forest. There is a pleasant view of distant hills to the right, just before the trail turns sharp left, drops down briefly, then climbs again through open forest dotted with large rocks. Soon you are out in the open again, with superb mountain views to your left, particularly stunning in spring with the thick blanket of snow on the peaks.

As you enter a wide clearing with Hallett Peak directly ahead, you arrive at a trail junction. Continue ahead for Dream Lake, now no more than 5 minutes away. After climbing 430 ft/131 m from the trailhead, your reward is to sit on the rock at the lake’s edge, with Hallett Peak and Flattop Mountain forming an imposing backdrop. And just below the saddle of these mountains, 0.7 mile/1.1 km away, is your final destination: Emerald Lake.

The increasingly rocky trail passes to the right of Dream Lake along its north shore and, as it climbs, runs close to Tyndall Creek. Head through an area of forest and huge boulders, before a final short climb takes you to the edge of Emerald Lake, dominated by Hallett and Flattop. It is a stark, yet impressive, scene.

An alternative return
Descend to the trail junction at Dream Lake. Instead of retracing your steps on the path ahead to return to the trailhead, turn right for a longer route into the high country. It is 1 mile/1.6 km and a climb of 320 ft/98 m to Lake Haiyaha. From there, you can continue on a loop that accesses trails to Loch Vale and Mills Lake, before descending to Bear Lake via Alberta Falls and Glacier Gorge.

Off-season hiking
Because of the popularity of the Bear Lake area, you should make a very early start if hiking in summer. Before or after the closure of Trail Ridge Rd it is much quieter. We climbed up to Dream Lake in mid-May and, although still snow-covered, the trail was passable to hikers (poles and gaiters are useful). The reward was complete solitude. At this time of year the track remains completely obscured in most places, and there are no blazes, but you can usually rely on the footprints of others to show the way. A topographic map and compass should be carried, and be sure to check conditions with the visitor center before setting out.

Directions: From Denver, take US 36 (off I-25 north) through Boulder to the town of Estes Park, just outside the Park’s east entrance. Continue on the 36 into the Park to the Bear Lake Rd junction, 1 mile beyond Beaver Meadows visitor center. (Note – Trail Ridge Rd, which runs across the Park connecting the west and east entrances, is only open from the end of May to mid-October, weather permitting).

Trailhead: Bear Lake parking area, at the end of 9-mile Bear Lake Rd. Due to the popularity of this area, a shuttle bus runs in summer from a parking area 5 miles along Bear Lake Rd.

Length: 3.6 miles / 5.8 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 605 ft / 184 m

Duration: 2 hours

Trail Condition: Well maintained and easy to follow.

Features: Sub-alpine and alpine lakes, mountain views, forest.

Climate: Heavy snow in winter – the trail is snow-free only in summer and fall. Be prepared for changeable conditions at any time of year.

Accommodation: The nearest campgrounds for tents and RVs are Moraine Park and Glacier Basin, both off Bear Lake Rd. Estes Park has plenty of accommodation, including motels and campgrounds with hook-ups.

Trail Notes: Obtain topographic maps and trail information at Beaver Meadows visitor center. Be aware of altitude – it is over 10,000 ft at Emerald Lake. If snowshoeing in winter, check routes and conditions with the visitor center and do not go beyond Dream Lake due to the risk of avalanche.

Summary:
A definitive Rockies trail, encompassing a gushing waterfall, a pristine lake and magnificent mountain views.

In the next 5 minutes the wide, well-graded path crosses two log bridges as it heads through open forest, with glimpses of mountains through the trees. Climb gently through beautiful forest dotted with boulders, and soon the roar of the river greets your arrival at the rim of Glacier Gorge, with its beautifully colored rock walls.

Briefly move away from the rock-strewn Glacier Creek as you continue through forest, but you soon rejoin it and it is then only another minute or so of gentle climb to Alberta Falls, gushing forcefully between huge boulders, framed by pine and aspen.

The trail bears right, away from the falls, and as you climb the hillside along long switchbacks the mountains open up around you. In a few minutes the roar of the river hits you again, and soon comes into view, making its way down the hillside.

The trail again leads to the right, away from the river (the way is perfectly clear in summer, but it can be tricky to find the right route here when the ground is blanketed with snow). Round a small hill, then continue climbing, with a high rocky knoll to your right.

1.4 miles into the hike, you reach a trail junction. Take the right fork, signed to Mills Lake and Loch Vale. As you climb from the junction, the view ahead is filled by magnificent black mountains, covered with snow and scattered pine trees. The path levels, allowing you to fully enjoy the majestic scenery, mesmerized by the high mountains that form a long wall to your left.

At 1.9 miles, the trail splits three ways. Take the left fork, signed Mills Lake – there is now just 0.6 mile to go. Head into the forest and just beyond a horse tethering post cross a log bridge. Climb a little, following the brook below to your left for a time. After 10 minutes of undulating trail, and a bridge crossing over Glacier Creek, a final stiff climb takes you onto rock slabs just a short distance from the lake. Ahead is the magnificent spread of mountains that give the lake such a dramatic backdrop.

Continue across the level rock (the route marked by cairns in a couple of places) and soon you will be sitting on the north-east shore of the lake, marveling at its unparalleled setting, framed by conifers, huge granite boulders, and towering peaks.

Hiking options from Mills Lake

* Continue around the east shore of Mills Lake and south along Glacier Creek for 2.2 miles/3.5 km one way to Black Lake, an additional climb of 690 ft/210 m.

* Retrace your steps 0.6 mile to the three-way trail junction. Here you can take a 1.9 mile/3 km unimproved trail that climbs 420 ft/128 m to Lake Haiyaha, from where you can descend on a loop back to Glacier Gorge Junction via Dream Lake.

* Alternatively, turn left at the three-way junction for the trail to Loch Vale, which climbs to more spectacular lakes: The Loch in 0.8 mile/1.3 km one way and 380 ft/115 m climb, and Sky Pond a further 1.9 miles one way and 720 ft/220 m. This is another highly recommended route.

Off-season hiking
Because of the popularity of the Bear Lake area, you should make a very early start if hiking in summer. Before or after the closure of Trail Ridge Rd it is much quieter. We climbed up to Mills Lake in mid-May and, although still snow-covered, the trail was passable to hikers (poles and gaiters are useful). The reward was near complete solitude. At this time of year the track remains completely obscured in most places, and there are no blazes, but you can usually rely on the footprints of others to show the way (although these may not always be reliable and route-finding can occasionally be tricky). A topographic map and compass should be carried, and be sure to check conditions with the visitor center before setting out.

Directions: From Denver, take US 36 (off I-25 north) through Boulder to the town of Estes Park, just outside the Park’s east entrance. Continue on the 36 into the Park to the Bear Lake Rd junction, 1 mile beyond Beaver Meadows visitor center. (Note – Trail Ridge Rd, which runs across the Park connecting the west and east entrances, is only open from the end of May to mid-October, weather permitting).

Trailhead: Glacier Gorge Junction parking area, near the end of 9-mile Bear Lake Rd. Due to the popularity of this area, a shuttle bus runs in summer from a parking area 5 miles along Bear Lake Rd.

Length: 5 miles / 8.0 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 700 ft / 213 m

Duration: 2.5 hours

Trail Condition: Maintained and easy to follow when snow-free.

Features: Lake, mountains, cascades and streams, forest, gorge.

Climate: Heavy snow in winter – the trail is free of snow only in summer and fall. Be prepared for changeable conditions at any time of year.

Accommodation: The nearest campgrounds for tents and RVs are Moraine Park (open all year) and Glacier Basin, both off Bear Lake Rd. Estes Park has plenty of accommodation, including motels and campgrounds with hook-ups.

Trail Notes: Obtain topographic maps and trail information at Beaver Meadows visitor center. Be aware of altitude – Mills Lake is just below 10,000 ft. If snowshoeing in winter, check routes, conditions and avalanche risk with the visitor center.

Summary:
A varied hike through forest and open grasslands offering magnificent views of Pikes Peak.

The hike starts with a 0.6 mile/1 km return climb to Grouse Mountain Overlook, the finest in the Park. Turn left at the junction, marked trail 16, just a couple of minutes from the trailhead. The wide path climbs through pine and aspen to a clearing, then narrows for the final stretch to an outcrop and a wonderful 180° panorama. In the distance to the south are the Sangre de Cristos Mountains, and the Sawatch Range lies to the west.

As its name suggests, this area is inhabited by wild blue grouse. In mid-May, a male bird had staked out his territory and aggressively pecked at every unfortunate hiker who passed his way. The best way we found to avoid his beak was to run – he couldn’t keep up! Fortunately, this aggressive behavior only lasts a couple of weeks while he is mating.

Returning to the main track, the start of the circuit proper is just beyond the Overlook junction. Take the left fork of trail 17 and keep to the wide gravel track as it easily descends through conifers and aspen, ignoring the turning for trail 32 (unless you want to visit Dynamite Cabin) after a few minutes. There are occasional glimpses east through the trees to Pikes Peak, a mere taster of the views to come later.

A mile later, now 1.6 miles/2.5 km into the hike, the trail descends more steeply and turns sharp right away from a fire access track. After several minutes, you enter open grassland and the path levels. The large expanse of prairie stretching ahead is a real contrast to the forest you were walking through moments earlier. The grassy path bears right again and passes along the base of a hill, close to fenced-off private land.

Arrive at a junction at 2.7 miles/4.3 km. One end of trail 33, Buffalo Rock, turns right, but you continue ahead on 17, which will take you to the now disused Cheeseman Ranch and the other end of 33. Climb a small hill and the massive bulk of 14,110-ft Pikes Peak emerges in front of you, with conifers and beautiful aspen in the foreground. Just ahead are the barns and paddocks of Cheeseman Ranch, where you may see elk.

For the next 0.4 mile, the trail veers left around the ranch buildings and winds up the wooded hillside to another magnificent view of the mountain and another junction: turn right onto 33. A couple of picnic tables have been placed here, a great place to have lunch and soak in the view.

The 0.6-mile Buffalo Rock section of the hike is a delight. It is level, entirely in open grassland, with fabulous views of the mountain, forested foothills and prairies at every step. A few farms are over to the left in the distance, and to your right is conifer and aspen forest.

At 3.7 miles/6 km, pass through some fencing and the trail divides. Leave trail 33 and take the left fork, 36, for 0.4 mile. The open land continues as you wind left and climb a small hill covered with aspen. Crest the hill and Pikes Peak comes into sight once more. Finally you descend and lose the view of the mountain as you reach the junction with Cahill Pond. Continue ahead on trail 34.

Climb very briefly, and on the left lies the small, brown pond backed by conifers. As the gentle climb becomes steeper, pass the turning for trail 35 and continue a steady climb on 34. As you get higher, the mountain views open up once again. Pass an old, ruined cabin – a good place to sit down and enjoy the view as you take a rest – and a couple of minutes later the trail divides again, at 4.8 miles/7.7 km. Turn left to keep on the 34. Enter denser forest and continue climbing for 0.3 mile. The circuit is now almost complete. Turn right on trail 17, following the signs back to the trailhead.

Outlook Ridge
The Park has 85 miles of trails. Another hike with great views is easy-moderate Outlook Ridge, which passes three out and back spurs to scenic overlooks and loops back via Lost Pond. Total distance (including all overlooks) 3.5 miles/5.6 km. Trailhead: Outlook Ridge parking area, just beyond the visitor center on the left of the road.

Directions: From Colorado Springs, take US 24 west for 25 miles through Woodland Park to Divide, then turn left onto Hwy 67 south for 3.5 miles. Turn right, pass the entrance station, and proceed along Wapiti Rd, which runs for just over 3 miles through the Park.

Trailhead: Grouse Mountain parking area at the end of Wapiti Rd. In spring, the last section of the road may still be closed so you will need to walk an extra 0.5 mile each way to reach the trailhead.

Length: 5.4 miles / 8.6 km

Trail Type: Loop

Elevation Change: N/A

Duration: 3 hours

Trail Condition: Well-maintained. Junctions are clearly marked with the trail numbers (not names).

Features: Forest, prairie, mountain views, wildlife.

Climate: Best in spring and fall. Heavy snow in winter. Hot in summer with afternoon thunderstorms.

Accommodation: Camping for tent and RVs inside the Park. Nearest lodging at Woodland Park, which has a small number of motels.

Trail Notes: Maps and booklets available at the visitor center, about halfway along Wapiti Rd. Grouse Mountain/Cheeseman Ranch area closed June 1-20 for elk calving. Be aware of high altitude, around 9,500 ft.

Summary:
Climb from the canyon floor, past the ruins of a hotel destroyed in 1912, to a high overlook of the Continental Divide.

Initially follow the easy Fowler Trail, which runs above the road and South Boulder Creek, before turning sharp right onto Rattlesnake Gulch after a couple of minutes. This trail follows the old wagon road – known as Crags Boulevard -used by visitors to the now-ruined Crags Hotel. Built in 1908, it survived only four years before it burnt to the ground in 1912 – through accident or arson, no one is sure.

The trail winds up the hillside, dotted with conifers that give welcome moments of shade on a sunny day, with nice views of the canyon rock walls. This is an area inhabited by mountain lions, and on the way up you may see a notice warning of mountain lion activity.

It is a hot climb of 800 ft/244 m over 1.4 miles/2.2 km to the Crags Hotel ruin. Today, the well and remains of the baking oven are pretty much all that is left. From here, turn left for the 0.8 mile/1.3 km Rattlesnake Gulch Loop, which climbs another 400 ft/122 m. It heads outside the Park boundary, close to the railroad tracks, then switchbacks sharp right up to an overlook of the Continental Divide. A short, steep descent completes the loop and returns you to the ruin, from where you retrace your steps down to the trailhead on the floor of Eldorado Canyon.

Although this trail never quite captures the wilderness feeling so important for a really great One Day Hike – there is often the glint of cars or power station in the distance, or the roar of a train on the railroad tracks – it is a pretty hike with some interesting history attached.

Longer hiking options

* Eldorado Canyon-Crescent Meadows Trail. A moderate-difficult climb from the inner canyon visitor center to Crescent Meadows, a separate section of the Park, 5.5 miles/8.8 km one way. Return along the same route, or via South Boulder Creek-Columbine Gulch Trails that loop back to join Eldorado Canyon Trail 3 miles from the visitor center – a total return distance of 14 miles/22.4 km.

* Mesa Trail. Just outside the Park, this hike winds through meadows and pine forest with views of the Flatirons, the rocky hills south of Boulder. To the radio tower and back is about 7 miles/11.2 km and a climb of 800 ft. The Eldorado Canyon entrance station has more information. Trailhead: Hwy 170, around 1.5 miles east of Eldorado Springs.

Directions: From Boulder, take Hwy 93 (Broadway) south for 4 miles, then turn right onto Hwy 170 west for 3 miles through Eldorado Springs to the Park entrance. From Denver, you can reach the 170 via I-25 north and US 36.

Trailhead: Fowler Trail parking area, 0.5 mile beyond the entrance station and 0.3 mile before the visitor center on the dirt road through the canyon.

Length: 3.6 miles / 5.8 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 1,200 ft / 366 m

Duration: 2.5 hours

Trail Condition: Stony, well-formed track.

Features: Canyon, cliffs, ruin, overlook.

Climate: Year-round trail, although it can be very hot in summer.

Accommodation: Boulder has plenty of lodging. No camping is permitted in the Park.

Trail Notes: Trail maps and booklets (including the history of Crags Hotel) are available at both the entrance station and the visitor center.