Summary:
From the forests of the North Rim, descend steeply into Roaring Springs Canyon along ledges carved into the sheer limestone cliffs.

The North Rim is 1,000 ft higher than the South, which accounts for its more extreme winter climate and higher precipitation – it receives more than twice the snow and rainfall. This extra moisture supports dense forests of spruce, fir, pine and aspen – lush vegetation that adds to the scenic grandeur of this immense gorge.

The North Kaibab Trail is the only maintained route into the Canyon from the North Rim. It descends steeply into Roaring Springs Canyon along ledges carved into the sheer limestone cliffs of the Redwall Formation, with spectacular canyon views along the way. It is not unknown for rock-falls to sometimes cover the track, and care should be taken given the long drop-offs.

Coconino Overlook is reached after 1.5 miles, and Supai Tunnel 0.5 mile after that. It is another 2.7 miles before the trail finally meets Bright Angel Creek. Here are several swimming holes, very welcome in the heat of summer, and from the cliff above surges Roaring Springs. It originates as precipitation on the rim, which seeps through the limestone and re-emerges when it reaches less porous rock.

The trail continues in a more gradual descent alongside Bright Angel Creek, eventually reaching the canyon floor. For very fit and experienced hikers, it would be possible to continue on for 3.7 miles, past Cottonwood Campground, to the beautiful oasis of Ribbon Falls. This return trip would total 16.8 miles/27 km, with an extremely tough climb out of over 4,200 ft/1,280 m – not a task to be undertaken lightly.

For most day hikers, Roaring Springs marks the turning-round point. Even so, do not underestimate the hard work to come. The 4.7-mile climb back up to the rim is very steep, and easily the most difficult section of the entire North Kaibab Trail.

Other day hikes at the North Rim

Widforss Trail. Combines forest and canyon scenery as it skirts the edge of Transept Canyon before ending at Widforss Point. This spectacular and secluded viewpoint overlooking Haunted Canyon is inaccessible by road. 10 miles/16 km out and back. Trailhead: 1 mile along a dirt road, 0.25 mile south of the junction with the Point Imperial/Cape Royal road.

Ken Patrick Trail. A 10-mile one way trail that winds mainly through forest to the North Kaibab trailhead. The first section, which hugs the rim from Point Imperial to Cape Royal Road, is the most spectacular (and popular) – about 5 miles/8 km out and back.

Lava Falls Trail. Lava Falls is actually a ferocious rapid, usually run by rafters at mid-morning. It can be reached by a precipitous, rugged, unmaintained trail, which drops 2,500 ft to the Colorado in just 2 miles. The difficulty of reaching this section of the North Rim beyond remote Tuweep just adds to the seclusion (be sure to check current trail conditions at the Ranger Station in Tuweep). Trailhead: Toroweap Overlook. Leave Route 89 at Fredonia, 30 miles north of Jacob Lake, and take Route 389 west towards Pipe Springs National Monument. After 9 miles, turn south onto the 70-mile, unpaved, isolated road via Tuweep to Toroweap Overlook.

Directions: US 89 to Jacob Lake, then Route 67 south (closed in winter) for 30 miles to the Park entrance. The 67 continues south for 14 miles to Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim.

Trailhead: 0.8 mile south of the junction with the road to Point Imperial and Cape Royal, 2 miles north of the lodge. A hiker shuttle runs to the trailhead from the lodge – fee charged.

Length: 9.4 miles / 15.0 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: -3,400 ft / -1,037 m
Very strenuous ascent on return.

Duration: 6 hours

Trail Condition: Maintained but very steep, and rocky in places.

Features: Limestone cliffs and other formations, creek and springs, canyon views.

Climate: Trail closed in winter due to snow. Hiking best in late spring/early summer or autumn. Mid to late summer brings high temperatures inside the canyon and afternoon thunderstorms.

Accommodation: Although far less busy than the South Rim, reservations for the Park lodge and campground on the North Rim must still be made well in advance. Other campgrounds and limited lodging 5 miles north of Park entrance and at Jacob Lake.

Trail Notes: Heavy snow closes the North Rim from November to late May. Take plenty of water when hiking into the Canyon.

Summary:
Descend into the world’s largest chasm to the very edge of the Inner Gorge.

Bright Angel Trail follows a route used for hundreds of years. The Bright Angel Fault created a natural break in the immense limestone cliffs, used by prehistoric Indians to reach the springs at Indian Gardens. It is a popular trail, which hikers share with mule trains, so expect company.

Pinyon-juniper forest characterizes the upper part of trail. Just after the First Tunnel, look out for some Indian pictographs above and to the left, unfortunately now covered in graffiti. Pass a small seep where Douglas fir grows, through the Second Tunnel, and descend a number of tight switchbacks before arriving at Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, 1,131 ft/345 m below the rim.

The trail swings tightly to the right at Two-Mile-Corner – there are more pictographs on the cliff walls above. Continue descending switchbacks before the trail straightens as it runs along red (iron oxide) and back (iron or manganese) cliffs to Three-Mile Resthouse. At this point you have descended a total of 2,112 ft/644 m. Below is the Redwall Formation, a layer of almost pure limestone up to 500 ft high – the distinctive color is due to iron compounds from the formations higher up. Behind the Resthouse is a viewpoint over the Redwall and your destination – Indian Gardens and Plateau Point.

The trail continues down a break in the sheer cliff created by the Bright Angel Fault. Switchbacks known as Jacobs Ladder descend to the base of the Redwall and on towards the upper Tonto Plateau. In places you will see the pipeline that crosses the canyon, carrying water from Roaring Springs to the South Rim. 1.6 miles and a further descent of close to 1,000 ft from Three-Mile Resthouse, you reach Indian Gardens. The springs here were used in prehistoric times, and later by Havasupai Indians who farmed this area. The cottonwood trees are more recent additions, planted during the early 1900s.

Bright Angel Trail continues to the right on its way to the Colorado River. You keep left, taking the Plateau Point Trail that branches off north over the arid Tonto Plateau. It is a relief to finally be on a relatively flat trail – the 1.5 miles to Plateau Point from Indian Gardens has an overall descent of just 120 ft.

Plateau Point, on the edge of the Tonto Plateau, has a dramatic view of the Inner Gorge. Massive buttes rise in the distance and 1,300 ft below is the Colorado River, the first and only time you see the river on this day hike. This is also the turning-round point, and the start of the long climb back up to the rim.

Other day hikes at the South Rim

West Rim Trail. Roughly parallels the West Rim Drive, allowing easy access via the summer shuttle to many points along the trail. Spectacular views into the canyon but expect lots of company, especially at the overlooks and on the paved first section to Maricopa Point. As with all canyon trails, be aware of steep drop-offs. 8 miles/12.8 km one way from Grand Canyon Village to Hermits Rest, elevation change 200 ft/61 m.

South Kaibab Trail. Follows ridge lines, allowing unobstructed views for most of its length (unlike Bright Angel Trail). A descent to Cedar Ridge makes a great short hike. 2.8 miles/4.5 km out and back, elevation change -1,450 ft/442 m. Trailhead: Near Yaki Point on East Rim Drive.

Grandview Trail. Take extra care on this steep unmaintained trail to Horseshoe Mesa on top of the Redwall Formation. 6 miles/9.6 km out and back, elevation change -2,600 ft/793 m. Trailhead: Grandview Point on East Rim Drive.

Hermit Trail. Another unmaintained trail requiring extra care. 6 miles/9.6 km out and back to Dripping Springs, elevation change -1,350 ft/412 m. Trailhead: Near Hermits Rest, at the end of West Rim Drive.

Directions: From the south, the quickest approach is to leave I-40 at Williams and take Route 64 north for 53 miles to the south entrance. From the north, take US 89 south to Cameron, then Route 64 west for 31 miles to the east entrance at Desert View. Grand Canyon Village is 3 miles beyond the south entrance and 22 miles beyond the east entrance along the East Rim Drive.

Trailhead: Grand Canyon Village, just west of Bright Angel Lodge and Kolb Studio.

Length: 12.2 miles / 19.5 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: -3,220 ft / -982 m
Strenous ascent on return.

Duration: 7.5 hours

Trail Condition: Wide and well-maintained.

Features: Limestone cliffs and other formations, springs, canyon views.

Climate: Hiking possible year-round, but best in spring and autumn. Summer brings extreme heat and thunderstorms. Snow and cold temperatures in winter, crampons may be necessary.

Accommodation: Reservations for lodging and campsites inside the National Park should be made well in advance. Tusayan, just outside the south entrance, has further options.

Trail Notes: Water available at Indian Gardens, and at the Resthouses from May to September (but confirm with the visitor center in Grand Canyon Village before setting out). Temperatures get hotter the further you descend – consider starting at mid-day or later so that your climb out will be in cooler evening temperatures (take a flashlight just in case).

Summary:
Explore a ‘Wonderland of Rocks’ on a circuit past weathered stone stacks and pinnacles.

Take Echo Canyon Trail for 1.6 miles to the fork and bear right onto Upper Rhyolite Trail. Continue descending alongside Rhyolite Creek, crossing the creek several times. There is one section of climbing after the last crossing. Woodland of oak and pine is predominant in this area.

After 1.1 miles, turn right into Sarah Deming Canyon. After climbing through more shaded woodland on the 1.5 mile Sarah Deming Trail, turn left into the Heart of Rocks area. A 0.9 mile loop leads past formations with names such as Punch and Judy and Duck on a Rock. Rejoin the main trail and turn left onto Heart of Rocks Trail.

Soon you pass Big Balanced Rock as you climb for 1 mile. Now turn left onto the 0.5 mile spur to Inspiration Trail. As the name suggests, the views are wonderful – to the west, the entire length of Rhyolite Canyon is laid out before you.

Back on the main trail once more, continue through pine and fir for 1.2 miles, enjoying views of rock sculptures such as Totem Pole. At the next junction – with Hailstone Trail – keep right. The circuit is now coming to an end. Climb to the final junction in 0.7 miles and keep left – there is now just a short walk to the trailhead at Echo Canyon parking area.

Directions: From Tucson, head east on I-10 for 81 miles to Willcox. Take Hwy 186 south-east for 31 miles, then turn left for the short drive into the National Monument. Beyond the entrance station, Bonita Canyon Drive passes the visitor center and climbs 1,500 ft through juniper and pine forests to Massai Point.

Trailhead: Echo Canyon parking area, off Bonita Canyon Drive just before Massai Point.

Length: 9.3 miles / 14.9 km

Trail Type: Loop

Elevation Change: -800 ft / -244 m
Total ascent approx 1,500 ft/457 m.

Duration: 5 hours

Trail Condition: Maintained and easy to follow.

Features: Rock formations; oak, pine and fir forests; creek, canyon views.

Climate: Hiking possible year-round – best in spring and autumn. Hot temperatures and thunderstorms in summer. Winter may bring heavy snowfall.

Accommodation: Year-round tent and RV camping (first-come, first-served) inside the Monument.

Trail Notes: Trail maps available at the visitor center.

Summary:
In the Chiricahua Mountains, towering stone stacks and lush forest rise from a land of arid desert and grasslands.

Echo Canyon Trail descends south-west past stunning scenery – sentinels of rock stand tall amongst the lush green of pine trees. After passing an area of particularly dense forest known as Echo Park, the trail ends in 1.6 miles/2.6 km at a fork.

To loop back, bear left (east) onto Hailstone Trail. The right fork – Upper Rhyolite Trail – will access Heart of Rocks/Inspiration Point for a much longer circuit.

The 0.8 mile/1.3 km, mainly level Hailstone Trail gets its name from the volcanic hailstones that can be seen about half way along. At the end, keep left at the junction, and left again at the next in 0.7 miles/1.1km. There is now just a short walk back to the trailhead.

For another short but rewarding hike, head to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain. The trail begins at the end of the spur road at the base of the mountain, and climbs to one of the highest elevations in the area. Not surprisingly, the views from the 7,310-ft summit are vast. 1.9 miles/3 km out and back, 470 ft/143 m ascent.

Directions: From Tucson, head east on I-10 for 81 miles to Willcox. Take Hwy 186 south-east for 31 miles, then turn left for the short drive into the National Monument. Beyond the entrance station, Bonita Canyon Drive passes the visitor center and climbs 1,500 ft through juniper and pine forests to Massai Point.

Trailhead: Echo Canyon parking area. Just before Massai Point, turn right off Bonita Canyon Drive onto a spur road to Sugarloaf Mountain – the parking area is just a short way along, on the left.

Length: 3.3 miles / 5.3 km

Trail Type: Loop

Elevation Change: -450 ft / -137 m
Climbs on return to trailhead.

Duration: 1.5 hours

Trail Condition: Maintained and easy to follow.

Features: Rock formations, oak and pine forest.

Climate: Hiking possible year-round – best in spring and autumn. Hot temperatures and thunderstorms in summer. Winter may bring heavy snowfall.

Accommodation: Year-round tent and RV camping (first-come, first-served) inside the Monument. Lodging in Willcox.

Trail Notes: Trail maps available at the visitor center.

Summary:
Hike to the bottom of a magnificent canyon and on to one of the best known of the Anasazi cliff dwellings.

From the South Rim, moderate switchbacks descend down walls of red de Chelly sandstone to the canyon floor. Slopes are dotted with cholla and prickly pear, cacti that is able to survive the low temperatures of winter. At the bottom, cross Chinle Wash – you may need to wade through shallow water but, when we hiked, there was a makeshift bridge of tree stumps. The trail makes its way along the canyon floor, through the cottonwood trees that line the river, to the fenced-off remains of an ancient village housing up to 60 people.

The White House was constructed and inhabited by the Anasazi from the 11th to the 13th centuries. There were originally around 80 rooms in total, but erosion has left the well-preserved remains of only 60, plus 4 kivas (ceremonial chambers). White plaster on the upper section, built inside a cave near the base of the canyon’s sheer sandstone cliffs, gives the ruin its name. Below is a multistory pueblo, originally linked to the upper section by ladders.

The Anasazi grew crops on the canyon floor, gathered fruit and nuts, and hunted deer and rabbit. The Navajo later settled the area after the Anasazi left in the 13th century and continue to farm the canyon to this day – indeed, near the trail end is a hogan, a traditional Navajo home and farm.

Directions: Leave I-40 at Chambers (140 miles east of Flagstaff, 47 miles west of Gallup) and take US 191 north for 75 miles to Chinle. Turn right (east) onto Route 7 towards the National Monument and visitor center.

Trailhead: From the visitor center, take the South Rim Drive for 5.7 miles, then turn left onto a 0.7 mile spur road to White House Overlook. The trailhead is to the right of the overlook as you face the canyon.

Length: 2.5 miles / 4.0 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: -550 ft / -168 m

Duration: 1.5 hours

Trail Condition: Well maintained. Be prepared to get your feet wet as you have to cross Chinle Wash.

Features: Ancient cliff dwelling, sheer canyon walls.

Climate: Best in spring and autumn. Summer brings high temperatures and afternoon thunderstorms. Cold in winter, with snow and high winds making road and trail conditions hazardous.

Accommodation: Nearest lodging and campground are 0.5 mile from the visitor center.

Trail Notes: Trail booklet available. For further exploration of the canyons, authorized guides can be hired at the visitor center.

Summary:
A steep, rocky trail with superb views of red rock country ends at a summit overlook into Red Canyon.

A sign at the trailhead briefly describes the climb to the summit. It accurately mentions the spectacular views and the rugged nature of the trail, but very much underestimates the elevation change at 1,200 ft. Be aware that this is a strenuous climb, but for every step there is a spectacular view, and surely there can be no better way to appreciate Arizona’s red rock country.

The track crosses two dry washes and heads across level ground towards the sandstone cliff that dominates the base of the mountain to the north. In just 5 minutes you enter the wilderness area and the rocky climb begins. As you switchback up the hillside there are immediate and constant all-round views of mesas and buttes, and at your feet is typical desert vegetation, including ocotillo, prickly pear and yucca. At a wall of fascinating sculptured rock, turn left and continue climbing steeply, following the cairns to stay on the right route. There are numerous opportunities to stop for a break and admire the expansive views.

At 20 minutes you reach the first plateau. Now it is generally level as you bear left, crossing the plateau through low shrubs, moving close to the huge sandstone monolith and other red rock formations as you head into a side canyon. To the left are the plains, the flat mesa of Doe Mountain, and distant hills.

It is not long before you encounter more steep switchbacks, which wind up the head of the side canyon hemmed in by cliffs on both sides. Another 15 minutes of climbing takes you to the top and, at 50 minutes, you emerge on a second, rocky plateau with expansive views of forested plains scattered with sandstone buttes, cliffs and other formations. Follow the cairns across the broad plateau covered with low shrubs. Ahead you can see the bare gray rock of the false summit – but there is still a lot of climbing to do on this hike.

Soon you will be captivated again by more magical vistas: red sandstone buttes and pinnacles, pink and white cliffs, carved canyons, and plains and mesas stretching for miles into the distance. At 1 hour, drop down some fairly steep switchbacks before the climbing resumes (again, keep following the cairns). The open trail means that whenever you want a break, you can just turn around and soak up the spectacular scenery. And as you climb higher, views into Fay Canyon open up to the right (if you think these are good now, wait until you get to the false summit).

At 80 minutes, the trail briefly levels off and drops down again. Ahead is the etched gray rock of the false summit, with the forested true summit behind. To each side, of course, are fabulous views: red pinnacles to the left, with the plains beyond; the high sandstone walls of Fay Canyon to the right.

From now on, it’s a hard climb all the way to the top.

Follow the cairns as you climb the bare, sculptured rock slabs to keep to the correct route. The only annoyance is the occasional sightseeing flight over Fay Canyon – unfortunately, these seem impossible to avoid in America’s most spectacular landscapes. Around 1.5 hours from the trailhead, you finally reach the false summit, perched high above Fay Canyon.

From this point, the National Forest Service leaflet is a little misleading. Don’t be fooled by the description of a ‘moderate climb’ to the true summit – it may be short, but it’s hard work! Cairns continue to mark the route and you continue ever upwards, steeply, through low shrubs, indian paintbrush and century plants, one of which was in full bloom by the side of the trail.

After 15 minutes (it feels longer) the gradient finally levels – you have reached the summit. Do not expect a 360° panorama, or even a view, as the summit is the one part of the hike that is shrouded with high shrubs and trees. But the climb is worth it, for now there is only a short level walk to the sheer cliff edge. Here you gaze into spectacular Red Canyon, with its high red and beige walls, and out to a massive expanse of land backed by distant hills on the horizon. To the extreme right (north) is the distinctive shape of the San Francisco Peaks.

Sitting at this high place, looking down on the red rocks in the middle of the wilderness, you can reflect on the fantastic peace and solitude far from the crowds of Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon. We were here during Memorial Day weekend, when other more popular trails were crowded with hikers. But on Bear Mountain we saw just one other person – incredible for a trail with such spectacular scenery.

When you are ready to leave, retrace your steps down the mountain. The joy of the descent, particularly to the false summit, is that you can once again enjoy the awesome views – all ahead of you now – of the sandstone cliffs and pinnacles of Fay Canyon, and the mesas beyond. It is best to allow as much time for the descent as the climb up, for two reasons. Some sections are very steep (as you will certainly know from the way up), over loose stones that make footing tricky and the going slow. And the scenery is just so good you will definitely want to take your time.

Directions: From Sedona, at the junction of Routes 179 and 89A, take 89A south-west for 3.2 miles. Turn right onto Dry Creek Road for 2.9 miles to a T-junction. Turn left on Boynton Pass Road for 1.6 miles to another T-junction. Turn left onto FR 152C (unpaved but passable by any vehicle).

Trailhead: Small parking area on the right, 1.6 miles along FR 152C.

Length: 5 miles / 8.0 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 1,900 ft / 579 m

Duration: 4 hours

Trail Condition: Narrow, rugged trail over rocks and sandstone slabs. Steep in places. Route marked by small cairns (rock piles).

Features: Sandstone cliffs, pinnacles and canyons; buttes and mesas; expansive and constant views of the surrounding landscape.

Climate: Best in spring and autumn. Very hot in summer. Do not climb in winter if there is snow on the mountain.

Accommodation: Five Forest Service campgrounds along Route 89A through Oak Creek Canyon. Plenty of hotels, motels and B&Bs in Sedona and Oak Creek village (4 miles south of Sedona on Route 179), although reservations are essential during holidays and other peak times.

Trail Notes: The open trail provides great views but no shade – if hiking during the hotter summer months start very early to finish the climb in the cool of morning. Take sunscreen and plenty of water. The Forest Service visitor centers in Sedona and Oak Creek village can supply topographic maps and Red Rock Passes, together with information on the numerous other trails in the area.