Summary:
An undulating trail over a series of extinct volcanoes culminates at the top of the highest peak in the Massif Central.

From the Puy de la Tache summit (5,343 ft/1,629 m), follow switchbacks to the top of the second hill, Puy de Monne (5,550 ft/1,692 m), passing the original direct route to the top that is now closed for regeneration. The trail actually passes to the right of the summit – you need to veer left onto a clear path to reach the top. Continue over the rocky top to rejoin the main track.

A short level stretch follows – enjoy it while you can, as they are very few and far between. Soon, another climb takes you up Puy de Barbier (5,583 ft/1,702 m) – not much of an ascent this time – followed by a short descent and another climb straight up the slope ahead to the top of Puy de l’Angle (5,700 ft/1,738 m). There are more open views of valleys, distant lakes and peaks along the way. From this summit, reached around 1.5 hours into the trail, head to the white cross. Here is a great spot to pause for a moment, with Puy de Sancy rising up beyond the valley.

Unfortunately, you now lose most of the height you have gained as you descend 985 ft/300 m in 1.2 km, a 25% gradient, down to Col de la Croix St-Robert on the D36. You can see the col and road below you to the left, the route is very clear. At the col, cross the road and continue ahead. A yellow sign points the way to Roc de Cuzeau in 1.5 km.

You now lose sight of Puy de Sancy as you follow a wide farm track. Bear right at a painted sign onto a gassy path up the hill. The gradient is gentle at first but be warned, it gets a lot worse! It soon ratchets up into a very steep, relentless climb, straight up the hill for 985 ft/300 m. It is hard work, there is absolutely no shade, and it gets very hot in the middle of summer (it was hot even at the end of September when we made the climb).

Finally (about 3 hours into the hike) you make it up the Roc, and a dramatic reward for your slog greets you at the top – a sudden, glorious view of Puy de Sancy. It is marred only by the human intrusion of the teleferique (cable car) and the car park below at Station du Mont-Dore (plus the countless insects you may encounter in summer). Turn left to descend to the Col de Cuzeau.

Another steep climb follows, then a level section and another climb, to the top of the ski lifts on Puy des Crebasses (5,780 ft/1,762 m). It is now noticeably busier on the trail, no doubt because of the telepheriques carrying people up to Puy de Sancy. The first half of the trail is far more peaceful.

Proceed along the ridge, where a wonderful view opens up of Vallee de Chaudefour. Rocky crags, forested slopes and a distinct lack of car parks make this beautiful Reserve Naturelle an even better sight than the Puy de Sancy cirque to the right. If you stop a while, you may be able to spot a peregrine falcon.

There is an easier section of trail for the next mile or so as you make your way to Pan de la Grange and a trail junction: to the right, a descent route to Station du Mont-Dore via a ski run, but your way lies ahead – the final climb of the day to the highest summit in the Massif Central range, 6,183 ft/1,885 m Puy de Sancy.

Haul your way up the final 540 ft/165 m to the top. Here you will find orientation maps clearly pointing out the various peaks and other landmarks – unfortunately, you will have to share them with the crowds who have made their way to the summit up the wooden steps from the teleferique. Never mind, you have the consolation of the fabulous panoramic views, and a sense of satisfaction as you look northwards over your day’s work.

If your knees are not up to the descent, you could ride the teleferique down to Station du Mont-Dore. However, it is far more pleasant to hike down through the Val de Courre. Veer left after a section of wooden steps, at a sign for the GR30 and PR1 tracks (marked by colored dots on a wooden post). 0.4 mile/0.6 km later, after passing the summit of Puy Redon on your right, you reach Col de Courre. Here turn right and descend through the valley for 1.5 miles/2.5 km. A ruined cabin just before you reach the car park stands as a memorial to three Resistance freedom fighters shot there by the Gestapo in 1944.

Return transport:

* The telepherique from Puy de Sancy to Station du Mont-Dore runs year-round except October and November. In 2000, the last descent left at 5.30pm in July and August, and 5pm in September. A one-way ticket cost 31 francs.

* From May to around the end of September, afternoon buses run from outside the hotel at Station du Mont-Dore north to Le Mont-Dore and on to La Bourboule. Departure times in 2000 were 2.40pm, 3.55pm, 5pm and 6.10pm. A ticket for the 10 minute journey to Le Mont-Dore (buy on the bus) cost 11.80 francs.

Directions: Le Mont-Dore lies south-west of Clermont-Ferrand, the largest town in the region, and there are several possible routes. One option is to exit the A road south of Clermont-Ferrand onto the D213 west, then continue south-west on the D983 to Le Mont-Dore.

Trailhead: Car park at the Col de la Croix Morand, north-east of Le Mont-Dore on the D996 – a taxi costs around 70 francs. Public transport is available in summer from the trail-end at Station du Mont-Dore (see end of hike description for details).

Length: 9 miles / 14.4 km

Trail Type: One way

Elevation Change: 1,705 ft / 520 m
Total ascent 3,570 ft / 1,088 m.

Duration: 6 hours

Trail Condition: Clear and well-signed paths.

Features: Rounded hills and jagged peaks, lakes, far-reaching views.

Climate: Hiking usually possible May to November. Hot in summer, with afternoon thunderstorms. Snow falls early December, marking the start of the ski season.

Accommodation: Hotels and campsites at Le Mont-Dore. Rooms also at Le Sancy hotel at Station du Mont-Dore.

Trail Notes: Take plenty of water – there is no shade over the tops. Insect repellent also advised due to wasps and flies on many of the summits. Topographic maps are available at the tourist office on Avenue de la Liberation, Le Mont-Dore.