Summary:
A definitive Rockies trail, encompassing a gushing waterfall, a pristine lake and magnificent mountain views.

In the next 5 minutes the wide, well-graded path crosses two log bridges as it heads through open forest, with glimpses of mountains through the trees. Climb gently through beautiful forest dotted with boulders, and soon the roar of the river greets your arrival at the rim of Glacier Gorge, with its beautifully colored rock walls.

Briefly move away from the rock-strewn Glacier Creek as you continue through forest, but you soon rejoin it and it is then only another minute or so of gentle climb to Alberta Falls, gushing forcefully between huge boulders, framed by pine and aspen.

The trail bears right, away from the falls, and as you climb the hillside along long switchbacks the mountains open up around you. In a few minutes the roar of the river hits you again, and soon comes into view, making its way down the hillside.

The trail again leads to the right, away from the river (the way is perfectly clear in summer, but it can be tricky to find the right route here when the ground is blanketed with snow). Round a small hill, then continue climbing, with a high rocky knoll to your right.

1.4 miles into the hike, you reach a trail junction. Take the right fork, signed to Mills Lake and Loch Vale. As you climb from the junction, the view ahead is filled by magnificent black mountains, covered with snow and scattered pine trees. The path levels, allowing you to fully enjoy the majestic scenery, mesmerized by the high mountains that form a long wall to your left.

At 1.9 miles, the trail splits three ways. Take the left fork, signed Mills Lake – there is now just 0.6 mile to go. Head into the forest and just beyond a horse tethering post cross a log bridge. Climb a little, following the brook below to your left for a time. After 10 minutes of undulating trail, and a bridge crossing over Glacier Creek, a final stiff climb takes you onto rock slabs just a short distance from the lake. Ahead is the magnificent spread of mountains that give the lake such a dramatic backdrop.

Continue across the level rock (the route marked by cairns in a couple of places) and soon you will be sitting on the north-east shore of the lake, marveling at its unparalleled setting, framed by conifers, huge granite boulders, and towering peaks.

Hiking options from Mills Lake

* Continue around the east shore of Mills Lake and south along Glacier Creek for 2.2 miles/3.5 km one way to Black Lake, an additional climb of 690 ft/210 m.

* Retrace your steps 0.6 mile to the three-way trail junction. Here you can take a 1.9 mile/3 km unimproved trail that climbs 420 ft/128 m to Lake Haiyaha, from where you can descend on a loop back to Glacier Gorge Junction via Dream Lake.

* Alternatively, turn left at the three-way junction for the trail to Loch Vale, which climbs to more spectacular lakes: The Loch in 0.8 mile/1.3 km one way and 380 ft/115 m climb, and Sky Pond a further 1.9 miles one way and 720 ft/220 m. This is another highly recommended route.

Off-season hiking
Because of the popularity of the Bear Lake area, you should make a very early start if hiking in summer. Before or after the closure of Trail Ridge Rd it is much quieter. We climbed up to Mills Lake in mid-May and, although still snow-covered, the trail was passable to hikers (poles and gaiters are useful). The reward was near complete solitude. At this time of year the track remains completely obscured in most places, and there are no blazes, but you can usually rely on the footprints of others to show the way (although these may not always be reliable and route-finding can occasionally be tricky). A topographic map and compass should be carried, and be sure to check conditions with the visitor center before setting out.

Directions: From Denver, take US 36 (off I-25 north) through Boulder to the town of Estes Park, just outside the Park’s east entrance. Continue on the 36 into the Park to the Bear Lake Rd junction, 1 mile beyond Beaver Meadows visitor center. (Note – Trail Ridge Rd, which runs across the Park connecting the west and east entrances, is only open from the end of May to mid-October, weather permitting).

Trailhead: Glacier Gorge Junction parking area, near the end of 9-mile Bear Lake Rd. Due to the popularity of this area, a shuttle bus runs in summer from a parking area 5 miles along Bear Lake Rd.

Length: 5 miles / 8.0 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 700 ft / 213 m

Duration: 2.5 hours

Trail Condition: Maintained and easy to follow when snow-free.

Features: Lake, mountains, cascades and streams, forest, gorge.

Climate: Heavy snow in winter – the trail is free of snow only in summer and fall. Be prepared for changeable conditions at any time of year.

Accommodation: The nearest campgrounds for tents and RVs are Moraine Park (open all year) and Glacier Basin, both off Bear Lake Rd. Estes Park has plenty of accommodation, including motels and campgrounds with hook-ups.

Trail Notes: Obtain topographic maps and trail information at Beaver Meadows visitor center. Be aware of altitude – Mills Lake is just below 10,000 ft. If snowshoeing in winter, check routes, conditions and avalanche risk with the visitor center.