| Petra, South Jordan |
Trail Name:High Place via Wadi Farasa Summary: |
| Outstanding One Day Hike of the World |
| Trail Description |
| Petra had its heyday in the 1st century BC, when it was the capital of the Nabatean state. A cosmopolitan city, it thrived on trade, particularly in metals, dyes, bitumen, silks and spices. However, it started its gradual decline a century or so later, when the Romans built a new capital for the Arabian province. It was still an important stop on caravan routes for another millennium – but after that Petra was forgotten and lost to the west. It was rediscovered in 1812 by Swiss explorer Johann Burckhardt.
This unique city, with its exquisite facades carved out of the red sandstone, is today full of tourists. But on this hike you see a different side of Petra, where it is easy to imagine a valley of traders and travelers as it was in the ancient world. The duration given in the Fact File is for the hike only – you will need to put aside plenty more hours, if not days, to explore the buildings and tombs you encounter along the way. Pass through the entrance gate and you leave the modern world behind. Follow the broad path through the Wadi Musa (‘Moses Valley’), the main Petra valley (not to be confused with the town of the same name). Sandstone formations rise on either side, with monuments and tombs cut into the rock. The Djinn blocks, several memorial obelisks and the Obelisk Tomb are among the stone monuments and caves you pass. After 0.5 mile/0.8 km, you reach the Siq, a natural fault that has resulted in a spectacular gorge 0.75 mile/1.2 km long. The entrance to the Siq was once crowned by a magnificent arch, still standing when the artist David Roberts painted his famous set of Petra pictures in 1839. Now only the supports on each side remain. As you make your way down the narrow gorge, you will mostly be in the shade, the high walls blotting out the sun. Several sections of the original road that ran through the Siq are still visible, along with reliefs, inscriptions and niches carved into the rock walls. At the end of the Siq, you have your first glimpse of the exquisitely carved pink faade of the Treasury – the classic view of Jordan. Framed by sheer rock walls, it is truly unforgettable. (Film buffs will recognize it instantly from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade) Follow the main path to the right of the Treasury, through what is generally known as the Outer Siq. Pass the Streets of Facades and the Theater, and continue to the ancient city center. Head down the Colonnaded Street, through the Temenos Gate (it originally had wooden doors) and into the Temenos, or temple courtyard. Continue until you reach the Qasr al-Bint, the Palace of the Pharaoh’s Daughter. Behind the Qasr al-Bint, take the clear track that leads south-east up the hillside to the solitary Pharaoh’s Column. Ignoring the path that heads south-west from here, continue on the track in the same general direction, past an excavated Nabatean villa to the left and across the floor of the Wadi (valley) Farasa. You pass the Tomb of the Broken Pediment and Tomb 229 and, just after this, you can turn right for a brief detour to more tombs, including Tomb 258. Back on the main track, it is only a short distance to the first steps, which lead up to the Roman Solider Tomb and Triclinium. This is considered the best example in Petra of a Nabatean tomb complex and well worth exploring. The track continues to the Garden Temple, a monument with two free-standing columns and open area to the front, believed to have been a garden. Soon the climb to the High Place begins, up a steep, winding stone staircase carved into the colorful rock. Beyond the Lion Fountain is an altar cut into the rock, and soon after that a rock outcrop on the left. Take it slowly, as along the way there are good views over the valley, the Garden Temple and the Roman Soldier Tomb. Head up the next set of steps, and quickly the steady climb begins again, broken only by a level section as the track veers left. The final ascent is via steps by a ruined wall. At the top, a rock-cut passage leads to the last few steps (the original Nabatean steps) up to the High Place, the site of important religious rituals and ceremonies. From the north edge of the promontory there are great views of the center of Petra. To return to the Outer Siq, head down the steps by the ruined wall and turn left (it is clearly signed). Descend down a long series of steps, which emerge onto the main path through Petra, near to the Streets of Facades. To leave the site, turn right – you will soon be back in the natural courtyard by the Treasury, filled with tourists and traders. We started this hike early, just as the site opened. The Siq was very cool in the early morning and totally deserted. The sun was only just hitting the top-most parts of the Treasury, and it looked ghostly in the pale light and silence. The trading stalls were covered and dormant. The climb through the Wadi Farasa to the High Place was also deserted, the only person we encountered was an old Bdul lady selling jewelry and brewing sweet tea. The High Place however was much busier, with most tourists opting to reach it via the steps from the Outer Siq. This is an outstanding hike. You are immersed within one of the key cities of the ancient world. You will be treated to tombs and temples, objects carved into the rock, and great views of the gorge and arid mountain scenery. You will be taken back in time, to a different place and culture, and walk the lonely cliff tops of the Nabateans, as they did in Petra’s heyday during the time of Christ. |
| FACT FILE |
| Location: In the Shara mountains, south-west Jordan. Entrance fee charged.
Directions: From Ma’an, about 125 miles south of Amman and 70 miles north of Aqaba, continue south on the Amman-Aqaba highway for 20 miles, then turn north along the main road for 20 miles to Wadi Musa, the small town just outside the Petra entrance. Trailhead: Petra entrance gate and ticket office, adjacent to the Resthouse and the visitor center. Length: 6 miles / 9.6 km Trail Type: Loop Elevation Change: N/A Duration: 3 hours Trail Condition: Clear track, with flights of steep stone steps in several places. Features: Narrow canyon, sandstone cliffs, carved rock buildings, mountains. Climate: The valleys of Petra can be very hot in summer. Best in late spring and early autumn. Expect rain during winter, November to April. Accommodation: The closest hotels to the site entrance are the Petra Resthouse and Petra Forum, with other hotels also within walking distance. Reservations advised. Trail Notes: The site opens from 7am (or earlier) until sunset. An early start is recommended, as Petra is crowded during peak hours, especially in the Siq and by the Treasury. |
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