A tent is basically portable shelter that gives you protection from the surrounding environment. It protects you from rain, snow, wind, the sun, the cold, insects, and more. It’s also the focal point of any campsite and most, if not all, campsite activities center around the tent. So, having the proper tent in your campsite will aid in your rest and relaxation after a long day on the trail. When choosing a tent consider the following: weight, floor area, ventilation, shape, weatherproofing, and durability.

NOTE: Backpacking with a tent is not mandatory for a good time. In my opinion the odds improve of having a good time if a tent is used, however, some prefer just a tarp strung up between trees or no shelter at all. This method provides the backpacker with less weight to carry and affords the hiker with the ability to set up camp almost anywhere. But, when the bugs are biting or unexpected foul weather approaches there is no security better in the backcountry than a tent.

WEIGHT/SEASON RATING

As a general rule a backpacking tent, for two people, should weigh around 5-7 lbs. Obviously, the more people, the bigger the tent, thus more weight. Also, if your planning to do alot of winter camping you’ll probably invest in a 4 season tent. This type of tent can handle most any weather in all four seasons. A 4 season tent usually employs more poles and is constructed from heavier, more durable fabric which adds to the overall weight of the tent. Most backpackers hike during the warmer seasons of spring, summer and fall (maybe an occasional winter hiking trip) and need only a tent rated for these three seasons-a 3 season tent. Some just buy a 4 season tent and use it all year, while other may opt to buy both types of tents using them in their respective seasons. If your just getting into camping or do minimal winter camping, then buy a good 3 season tent (why carry the extra weight of a 4-season tent if you don’t need it?). Most 3 season tents can be used in winter if the forecast is absent of snow, high wind and very cold weather. But remember, high in the mountains the weather is generally unpredictable, especially in winter. You’ve been warned!

FLOOR AREA

Floor area determines how much living space exists in a tent. This depends mostly on your personal preferences. Remember, when you’re out in the backcountry and it rains for twelve hours straight, you’ll probably spend most of your time in the tent. How much space do you need to remain comfortable? For a two person, 3 season tent a floor area between 36-40 square feet will maintain comfort for most people. A two person, 4 season tent with 45-48 square feet will comfortably hold two peolpe along with their bulky winter sleeping bags and clothing. If you’re tall (over 6 feet) make sure the length of the tent will accomodate the length of your body.

VENTILATION

On hot, humid nights in the summer the aspect of ventilation is important in maintaining comfort. A tent partly made of a fabric called no-see-um netting will protect you from insects and allow adequate ventilation to keep the tent cooler. Usually the doors and windows are made from no-see-un netting. This netting can also be found in the tent’s side and top panels. Most good tent makers use this fabric and design their tents with ventilation in mind.

SHAPE

The shape of a tent is important to consider also. A rounded, more aerodynamic shape will deflect wind and absorb less stress from that wind. Tents that have a flat shape will also deflect wind but tend to absord more of the wind’s energy causing more stress to be put on the tent’s framework. Most backpacking tents on today’s market are areodynamic and do well in reducing wind stress. Also, if you might experience snow on your hiking trip keep in mind that the more round a tent is, the better it will shed falling snow.

WEATHERPROOFING

After purchasing a tent it must be waterproofed. A tent is constructed by sewing pieces of fabric together. Stitching leaves holes in the fabric where water can enter. These holes or seams must be sealed in order to keep the inside of your tent dry. Some tents makers factory seal their seams with tape but most require sealing by the consumer. Any good outdoor supply store will sell seam sealer. Follow the directions. Most sealers suggest setting the tent up and sealing the seams. Then put the rainfly on upside down and seal the rainfly’s seams. Make sure the sealer soaks into the threads and stitch holes. Let the sealer dry for several hours then apply another coat. After two coats have been applied let the sealer cure overnight. Re-seal the tent seams once a year to ensure your tent’s weatherproofness and that you remain dry and comfy on your backpacking trips.

DURABILITY

Three tips concerning the durability of a tent besides the obvious like no fires or flames inside a tent. First, always use a waterproof ground tarp under the tent. This not only adds another barrier of water protection but also protects the underneath protion of your tent from root and rock abrasion. (Also, remember to make sure the tarp is completely under the tent. A protruding edge is likely to catch rain water and carry it under the tent.) Second, remove your hiking boots before entering the tent. This will reduce wear and tear on the tent floor. Finally, the ultraviolet rays of the sun can also damage the tent’s waterproof coating. So, try to pitch your tent out of direct sunlight.

There are a number of misconceptions about sizing a backpack. The most common is that a tall person always needs a bigger pack than a short person. While this may be true, it is not necessarily so. Since Backpacks fit on your back, that is the part of you that we need to measure, not your height. In fact there are actually three aspects to sizing your back pack. The first of these issues is pack length.

Torso length

It is best to enlist a friend or family member to help you at this point. It may be possible to get a measurement by yourself but in my experience it is usually not accurate.

Stand with you feet at shoulder width and have your assistant find your 7th vertebrae. This is found by lowering your chin to your neck and having your assistant locate the bump at the back of your neck, just about even with the top of your shoulders.

Next find the top of your hip bones. This in not in front of your body but along your side. If you find your rib cage under your arm, slide down until you meet the top of your hips, this is your “Illiac Crest”. You will feel sort of a platform there that will support the weight of your backpack and its contents. A properly fitted pack will comfortably transfer most of the weight to this point and off of your shoulders.

Now measure the distance between these two points. This is your “Torso Length”. Nearly all packs are sized based on this measurement. Make sure that whatever “capacity” pack you are searching for, that the “torso length” matches yours.

The next measurement to consider is hipbelt and shoulder harness size and gender. Some packs are able to adjust the hip belt angle such as the Gregory Women’s Deva 60 Backpack. Others size the hipbelt and shoulder harness specificly for men or women like the Osprey Packs Ariel 75 Backpack – Women’s – 4600cu in

The difference is that men’s hips are less shapely than women’s so the angle or flare of the hipbelt should be different. Most men’s hips flare at an angle of 14 to 16 degrees. Women have a more tapered shape that is approximately 20 to 22 degrees. Next determine your hip measurement and select the proper size. These sizes are usually listed in a chart provided by most manufacturers. A properly sized hipbelt will cover the front of your hipbones but will have a room to tighten in front. It will form around the top of your hipbones and not slide down when weighted.

Shoulder harnesses are cut also differently for women than for men. Once again some manuacturers offer adjustable shoulder harnesses and others require changing the harness out for one of the proper dimensions or selecting a pack that is gender and size specific.

A man’s shoulder harness usually has wider straps and extends straight down from the shoulder to the adjusting strap. A womans harness has narrow straps that are “S” shaped to accomodate her shape and is shorter since women are normally shorter from waist to shoulder. Whichever you are looking for, take a close look at the edges of the straps when the pack is on you back and weighted. They should sit flat against your shoulders equally on either side. If you can slip your finger under one side and the other is tight against you, it may cause pain and pressure on that side after some time on the trail.

This is the third of three “Fit” sections and it refers to the capacity of your pack. It is important to have a pack that fits your body but it is also important to be sure that your pack fits the use you are buying it for. It does you no good to have a pack that is comfortable and has the perfect suspension system if it does not hold the things you want to carry or if it is twice the size you would ever need.

A good rule of thumb is to start out with an idea of what you are going to use the pack for and how much stuff you are carrying. If you have your other gear (sleeping bag, pad, tent, stove, etc.) already you can put it all in a pile and measure the size of the pile. Most of us get the pack first and then think about the stuff that goes into it. Another way to gauge the pack size is to take a look at the following categories and pick the one that best applies to you. If you are interested in Ultralight packing, take a look at our Primer (in progress) on that subject when it is posted.

1.) Mimimumalist: 3000 to 3500 cu. in. (50 to 60 L) most appropriate for persons who are likely to only do weekend trips, use ultra light gear, a small person, compact gear, short trips. This type of pack is also good for the ultra light traveller to use as a carry on. It can also double as a summit pack on those bigger expeditions.

2.) Lightweight: 3500 to 4000 cu. in. (60 to 70 L) this range is still great for short trips, lightweight gear, and works well for the person who is travelling with another person who can share the group gear load. This is as large as can be used for carry on travel.

3.)Mediumweight: 4000 t0 5000 cu.in. (70 to 80 L) Those of you who have been backpacking for years might find yourself scaling back to this catgeory. We don’t go on overly long trips. A week is a really long time and we tend to keep it to three or four days. We may also go for a weekend trip in the winter where we need more space for all the extra gear. This size pack is also good for the long trail hiker who wants to keep it light but may have long streches of no supply and has to carry a week or more worth of food.

4.) Heavyweight: 5500 to 7000 cu. in. When you see the guy (sometimes it’s a girl but not very often) who has every possible thing with them, they are probably carrying this size range pack. This is the one that the Dad or Mom who carries all the food, the tent, kitchen, and sometimes the kids sleeping bags as well as his or her own. It is also the size pack you might take on a full blown expedition. If you are shopping for this type of a pack, I recommend that you make sure that the place you buy it has a reasonable return policy and that you have some time to try it on with all of your stuff in it. Fit is crucial for this type of a pack and you should avail youself of all the help picking it out as you can.

This measurement is usually between 14 and 22 inches. I recommend that you get professional assistance if you can or at least have a friend do this. If you are unsure, get a second opinion, or a third. It is very hard to measure your own back since you cannot read the tape measure when it is behind your head!

OK, now that you have your measurement, it is time to go shopping, right? Well not quite. Stay with me for just a few more points.

It is important to understand the difference between a cheap pack and an expensive one. It is not “Brand Name” that makes the difference in price, it is more often the difference in how a pack is made and how adjustable it is. Usually the better name manufacturers use better materials, and have greater adjustability or fit options available.

Lets look at shoulder harnesses first. Some brands use a system that allows you to adjust the location, angle and length of their shoulder harnesses, some offer different sizes and others have fixed harnesses. If the fixed shoulder straps fit you, fantastic. You are lucky and will save some money since it costs more to make them adjustable. The harness should have a countour that clears your neck and curves back in front creating an S shape. It should sit fairly flat on your shoulder and not bite on either side. I recommend that you avoid straps that have a rolled edge. They may look more durable but those edges can be hard and create pressure points. Womens straps are usually narrower and the S shape is more pornounced. The padded part of the strap should not extend too far in front but should reach at least a few inches past your arm pit. It should attach to the pack in badk at a point level with or below the top of your shoulder and should have an additional strap that brings the load in toward your body. This is called a load control strap and it should attach to the shoulder strap at the top of your shoulder.

Finally lets look at the waist belt or hip belt. The padded portion of the hip belt should extend past the front of your hip bones but not too far. It should cradle your illiac crest (the TOP of your hip bones) without putting pressure on one point and should not push into your ribs. When fastened, it should transfer nearly all of the weight of your pack on to the hips with only 15% to 20% on your shoulders. Many manufacturers offer womens and mens packs or harnesses while some allow the hip belt to adjust to different angles to accomodate different ammounts of hip flare.

The backpack is simply a backcountry device used to transport all your gear from point A to point B. However, choosing the specific backpack to accomplish this task is not so simple. Infact, it can be down right complicated. You must consider such variables as internal or external framed, load distribution, size, capacity, fit, comfort, durability, and price. Trying to find a pack that accomodates all of these variables to meet your specific needs can be time consuming and frustrating. But, making sure you purchase the right pack will pay off after you’ve left the roadside and are miles down the trail. The following information might help you when searching for that perfect backpack-if one actually exists.

Internal or External Frame

For several years now it seems that the buying trend with packs has shifted favorably to internal frame backpacks. However, when purchasing a new backpack remember to consider the external frame pack as well. These packs have been around many years and have proven themselves as worthy performers in the backcountry.
The main consideration when purchasing a pack is the terrain that you will encounter. The weight in an external frame pack is loaded high in the pack causing the pack and you to become top heavy. This offset results in poor balance. Thus, easy terrain with well-maintained trails is where a hiker would best employ an external frame packpack. However, when the terrain is steep and rough or your adventure takes you off-trail then an internal frame pack is the best choice. The internal pack is loaded with your heavy gear against your back. This helps maintain your center of gravity making it easier for you to scramlbe over boulders, negotiate rugged terrain or whatever is in your way without losing your balance. If you plan hike over both “mild and wild” terrain then opt for the internal frame backpack because it performs well in both environments.

Load Distribution

Also, consider the load distribution of each type of backpack frame. With an external frame pack the weight is transferred from the pack to the metal frame. The metal frame is designed so that most of the pack’s weight is shifted to the hip-belt and off the shoulders and back. If you are prone to back and shoulder fatigue then this might be the frame type for you. The internal frame pack is designed so that the pack’s weight is more evenly distributed among the hip-belt, shoulders and back. Most packs are adjustable so that their weight can be shifted from hips to shoulders or the opposite. Internal frame packs tend to be more “fine tunable” than external frame packs. Also, make sure the pack you select has a sternum strap. This strap connects the shoulder straps together near the center of your chest and adds to the adjustablity of a pack.

Size and Capacity

Your length of stay in the backcountry and the season of the year will mostly determine the size and capacity of your backpack. Typically, for a weekend or half-week trip a 4000-5000 ci internal frame or a 3,000 ci external frame will suffice. When going on an extended trip (a week or longer) a 6000+ internal or a 4000+ external will be needed to carry the extra food and gear required for longer excursions. If your backpacking in the winter add atleast 500-1000 ci to both types of packs to accomodate bulkier clothing and a warmer sleeping bag. (Note: The reason why the external pack’s capacity is lower than the internal’s is because your sleeping bag, tent, sleeping pad, etc. are usually loaded on the inside of an internal pack. The same items can be attached to the frame of an external pack so the actual pack itself need not be as big.)

Comfort, Fit and Durability

Comfort and fit are probably the two most important factors to consider when purchasing a backpack. The best advice to take is try before you buy. A good sales clerk can assist in properly fitting a pack to your body dimensions. Also, most good outfitting stores will load their packs with sand bags or other objects of weight to simulate a realistic load that you would haul in the backcountry. This will make the decision process alot easier. Try the loaded pack on, walk around. Try to find a hill or uneven terrain nearby the store to test the pack’s load hauling characteristics. Can you maintain good balance? Can the pack be easily adjusted to improve the fit or shift the weight of the load without taking it off? Leave the pack on as long as possible to get as good of an indication as possible that the pack and your body are somewhat compatable. If you have any doubts-don’t buy! Wait until you are completely sure and confident in your final choice. After purchasing the pack, load it with gear and take a practice run, maybe a day hike or just around the backyard, to really get a feel for the pack.
Concerning durability there are several things to notice on a pack to gauge it’s quality and craftsmanship. Observe the stitching. Good packs will be double-stitched to improve durability as well as strength. Also, the fabric type will determine durability. Cordura is a very tough fabric employed by most good pack manufacturers but is heavy. Most all harness systems and waistbelt are made from Cordura. Packcloth (ripstop nylon) is not as durable as Cordura but can hold its own and is not as heavy. Alot of pack makers use a combination of fabric types to reach a compromise between durability and lightness.

For most recreational backpackers, especially on the east coast, light or medium weight boots will handle most terrain. Heavy weight boots are primarily used on extremely rough terrain or when traverseing over snow and ice where crampons(spiked attachments) are needed for extra traction.

Light weights boots are ideal for day hikes and over-night trips on easy going trails. Most light weight boots are made from a combination of nylon fabric and suede leather. The more expensive ones have a waterproof, breathable liner. Medium weight boots are constructed from leather. Try to find a boot that has as few seams as possible and is made from a few pieces of leather rather than many small ones sewn together. Seams are good places for blisters to form because the leather or fabric does not flow smoothly over the skin. Usually the best boots look plain and dull. All leather boots must be waterproofed. There are several good products on the market that can be used to do this. Follow the given directions.

Before purchasing boots, first consider your socks. Good socks are usually made from a blend of wool and synthetic fabric with a dense layer of material at the heel and toe. A polypro liner is worn next to the skin to wick away moisture keeping your feet dry. Wear your socks and liners when you go to try on boots.

After lacing up your boots at the store, stand up, tap the heel, then the toe, walk up hill and then down hill all the time paying attention to the movement of your foot in the boot. A good fitting boot will not allow your foot to shift or move up and down while walking. If this movement exists it will most assurredly cause a blister. On the other hand avoid buying boots that are too tight that will inhibit blood circulation in your feet.

After purchasing, wear your new boots for brief periods of time. Gradually increase the time of wear. Make a few day hikes of several miles to make sure your boots are properly broken in and to ensure their fit before heading off on an extended outting. You might get lucky, but don’t expect to pull up at the trail head, put your new boots on right out of the box and enjoy your hike. A little planning and preparation can prevent a lot of misery and a potential disaster.

Serious thought and research should be undertaken when purchasing a sleeping bag. Your sleeping bag provides warmth and comfort during the night so your body can adequately recover from a rough day on the trail and be fresh and ready for the next day’s adventure. Do your homework, as you should for every piece of outdoor gear, when considering which sleeping bag suits your needs. Some areas to consider when looking at sleeping bags are: temperature rating, warmth/weight/compression, shape, and sleeping pads.

Temperature Ratings

Temperature rating, or comfort rating, is typically the lowest temperature that an average person will remain comfortable in a sleeping bag. Sleeping bag manufacturers vary somewhat when it comes to defining the method used to determine a bag’s temperature rating. Some varibales in a manufacturer’s equation for determining a temperature rating are: sleeping pad? bag liner? clothes? tent?. Manufacturers may or may not include these factors when calculating bag ratings. So, the best advice to give concerning temperture ratings is to use this information to acquire a “ball park” temperature that will suit your needs and supply comfort. Also, seek the advice of a good outdoor gear retailer concerning rating values for specific manufacturers. Again, doing research is highly advisable.

Warmth/Weight/Compression

These three considerations are grouped together because they are all basically determined by the fill material. Sleeping bags are filled with many different kinds of material that are grouped into two main categories, down (from goose) and synthetic.
There are advantages and disadvantages for both types of fill material:

• map
• compass
• flashlight with extra bulb and batteries
• candle or fire starter
• sunglasses
• extra clothing
• extra food and water
• pocket knife
• first aid kit, and
• waterproof matches

Another perspective of “Essentials” for travel is listed below and is a bit more expanded than the list above:

E mergencies
S ustenance
S helter
E xtras
N avigation
T oiletries
I ncidentals
A ttitude
L ight
S omething to carry it all in

A description of each letter follows:
Emergencies

• waterproof matches
• candle or flammable material
• first aid kit
• whistle and/or signal mirror

Sustenance

• food (including cooking gear)
• water and/or water purification device

Shelter

• sun protection: sunglasses, hat, sunscreen
• rain- and wind-resistant outer clothing
• clothing for expected temperatures
• footwear appropriate for the terrain
• overnight gear (sleeping bag, pad, tent)

Extras

• extra food
• extra water
• extra warm clothing

Navigation

• map(s) of area
• compass
• pencil and straight edge
• altimeter (if needed for critical navigation)

Toiletries

• toilet paper
• trowel (to bury solid waste)
• sanitation/personal items

Incidentals

• knife
• nylon cord (for securing items or holding a delaminated shoe or boot together)
• needle and thread or dental floss (for mending cloth, eyeglass frames, etc..)

Attitude

• positive attitude–the ultimate essential!!

Light

• flashlight with fresh batteries
• extra batteries and spare bulb

Something to carry all of it in

• fanny pack, day pack, or backpack
• stuff sacks (for compressing bulky items and organizing gear)

A. If you are car camping and your tent will be 7 feet from your car – take anything and everything you might want – including your pillows.

B. If you are backpacking in you will be carrying everything you need on your back. How much do you really want that boom box?

All joking aside there are a few essentials that you have to have:

• First Aid Kit
• Map & Compass
• Whistle – everyone in your group should have one.
• Flashlight, extra bulb and batteries.
• Sunscreen.
• Pocket knife.
• Fire starter and waterproof matches.
• Appropriate clothing.
• Water purification system or tablets.
• Extra high energy food.
• Your permits or park passes.

Additional steps:

• Lock your car at the trailhead.
• Check the latest weather before leaving your vehicle.
• Before you leave home investigate a global positioning system (GPS).
• Investigate the beeper beacons that are available for tagging small children.

The main concept to remember when considering outdoor clothing is layering. Layering offers the hiker with various options of clothing combinations depending on the current weather conditions which, in the high country, can change dramatically in just a few minutes. There are three primary layers of outdoor clothing: 1.) the outer layer or shell, 2.) the middle layer, and 3.) the base layer. All three are interdependent on each other and while you may not wear all three layers at one time you must pack all layers (even in summer) to ensure a warm, dry and comfortable time in the backcountry.

Note: there exists many different fabrics and material that would require many pages to list and describe concerning outdoor clothing. In this brief summary only the most popular kinds of fabrics and material will be named. I urge anyone about to buy outdoor clothing to do their own research and reach their own conclusions as to what fabrics would suit their needs.

Base Layer

The purpose of the base layer is simply to keep your skin dry. This base layer “wicks” moisture away from your skin. If this moisture (a nice word for sweat) is not removed from your skin it begins to evaporate due to the body’s high temperature. Evaporation is a cooling process thus leaving the hiker wet and cold, which could lead to a dangerous situation. The most common fabrics used for this layer are: Polypropylene, Thermax, Capilene.

Middle layer

The middle layer acts as an insulator providing warmth to the hiker. This layer, primarliy wool, fleece or down, offers warmth while being relatively light in weight and maintains its insulating characteristics even if wet (except down which loses in warming capabilities when wet).

Outer Layer

This layer provides a water barrier to the hiker from external sources (ie-rain, snow, etc…). The outer layer should also be “breatheable” with ventilation being a major consideration. Material such as GoreTex and others provide this “breatheability”. Breatheable rain gear contains very, very small holes in it’s fabric. What? Holes in your rain gear? That’s ridiculous. Ahh, but there’s logic to this concept. The holes are big enough to allow water vapor (a single water molecule), originating from moisture being “wicked” away from your skin, to pass through, but not big enough to allow passage of a water droplet (a group of water molecules), originating from that blasted dark cloud above your head. Make sense? Also, make sure any rain coat purchased has underarm zip vents for extra ventilation.

Other Items to Consider

Others items of importance to consider are gloves, hats, socks, sock liners and gaiters. At this time these items will not be discussed.