Summary:
A steep, rocky trail with superb views of red rock country ends at a summit overlook into Red Canyon.

A sign at the trailhead briefly describes the climb to the summit. It accurately mentions the spectacular views and the rugged nature of the trail, but very much underestimates the elevation change at 1,200 ft. Be aware that this is a strenuous climb, but for every step there is a spectacular view, and surely there can be no better way to appreciate Arizona’s red rock country.

The track crosses two dry washes and heads across level ground towards the sandstone cliff that dominates the base of the mountain to the north. In just 5 minutes you enter the wilderness area and the rocky climb begins. As you switchback up the hillside there are immediate and constant all-round views of mesas and buttes, and at your feet is typical desert vegetation, including ocotillo, prickly pear and yucca. At a wall of fascinating sculptured rock, turn left and continue climbing steeply, following the cairns to stay on the right route. There are numerous opportunities to stop for a break and admire the expansive views.

At 20 minutes you reach the first plateau. Now it is generally level as you bear left, crossing the plateau through low shrubs, moving close to the huge sandstone monolith and other red rock formations as you head into a side canyon. To the left are the plains, the flat mesa of Doe Mountain, and distant hills.

It is not long before you encounter more steep switchbacks, which wind up the head of the side canyon hemmed in by cliffs on both sides. Another 15 minutes of climbing takes you to the top and, at 50 minutes, you emerge on a second, rocky plateau with expansive views of forested plains scattered with sandstone buttes, cliffs and other formations. Follow the cairns across the broad plateau covered with low shrubs. Ahead you can see the bare gray rock of the false summit – but there is still a lot of climbing to do on this hike.

Soon you will be captivated again by more magical vistas: red sandstone buttes and pinnacles, pink and white cliffs, carved canyons, and plains and mesas stretching for miles into the distance. At 1 hour, drop down some fairly steep switchbacks before the climbing resumes (again, keep following the cairns). The open trail means that whenever you want a break, you can just turn around and soak up the spectacular scenery. And as you climb higher, views into Fay Canyon open up to the right (if you think these are good now, wait until you get to the false summit).

At 80 minutes, the trail briefly levels off and drops down again. Ahead is the etched gray rock of the false summit, with the forested true summit behind. To each side, of course, are fabulous views: red pinnacles to the left, with the plains beyond; the high sandstone walls of Fay Canyon to the right.

From now on, it’s a hard climb all the way to the top.

Follow the cairns as you climb the bare, sculptured rock slabs to keep to the correct route. The only annoyance is the occasional sightseeing flight over Fay Canyon – unfortunately, these seem impossible to avoid in America’s most spectacular landscapes. Around 1.5 hours from the trailhead, you finally reach the false summit, perched high above Fay Canyon.

From this point, the National Forest Service leaflet is a little misleading. Don’t be fooled by the description of a ‘moderate climb’ to the true summit – it may be short, but it’s hard work! Cairns continue to mark the route and you continue ever upwards, steeply, through low shrubs, indian paintbrush and century plants, one of which was in full bloom by the side of the trail.

After 15 minutes (it feels longer) the gradient finally levels – you have reached the summit. Do not expect a 360° panorama, or even a view, as the summit is the one part of the hike that is shrouded with high shrubs and trees. But the climb is worth it, for now there is only a short level walk to the sheer cliff edge. Here you gaze into spectacular Red Canyon, with its high red and beige walls, and out to a massive expanse of land backed by distant hills on the horizon. To the extreme right (north) is the distinctive shape of the San Francisco Peaks.

Sitting at this high place, looking down on the red rocks in the middle of the wilderness, you can reflect on the fantastic peace and solitude far from the crowds of Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon. We were here during Memorial Day weekend, when other more popular trails were crowded with hikers. But on Bear Mountain we saw just one other person – incredible for a trail with such spectacular scenery.

When you are ready to leave, retrace your steps down the mountain. The joy of the descent, particularly to the false summit, is that you can once again enjoy the awesome views – all ahead of you now – of the sandstone cliffs and pinnacles of Fay Canyon, and the mesas beyond. It is best to allow as much time for the descent as the climb up, for two reasons. Some sections are very steep (as you will certainly know from the way up), over loose stones that make footing tricky and the going slow. And the scenery is just so good you will definitely want to take your time.

Directions: From Sedona, at the junction of Routes 179 and 89A, take 89A south-west for 3.2 miles. Turn right onto Dry Creek Road for 2.9 miles to a T-junction. Turn left on Boynton Pass Road for 1.6 miles to another T-junction. Turn left onto FR 152C (unpaved but passable by any vehicle).

Trailhead: Small parking area on the right, 1.6 miles along FR 152C.

Length: 5 miles / 8.0 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 1,900 ft / 579 m

Duration: 4 hours

Trail Condition: Narrow, rugged trail over rocks and sandstone slabs. Steep in places. Route marked by small cairns (rock piles).

Features: Sandstone cliffs, pinnacles and canyons; buttes and mesas; expansive and constant views of the surrounding landscape.

Climate: Best in spring and autumn. Very hot in summer. Do not climb in winter if there is snow on the mountain.

Accommodation: Five Forest Service campgrounds along Route 89A through Oak Creek Canyon. Plenty of hotels, motels and B&Bs in Sedona and Oak Creek village (4 miles south of Sedona on Route 179), although reservations are essential during holidays and other peak times.

Trail Notes: The open trail provides great views but no shade – if hiking during the hotter summer months start very early to finish the climb in the cool of morning. Take sunscreen and plenty of water. The Forest Service visitor centers in Sedona and Oak Creek village can supply topographic maps and Red Rock Passes, together with information on the numerous other trails in the area.